Even though the haute couture, and menswear, shows have come to a close that doesn’t mean the sartorial news cycle doesn’t keep on spinning and we have all the goss on new drops, collections and must-see events from Heaven by Marc Jacobs, Dior and the BFC for the fashion-pilled amongst you to get excited about. What would you do without us, hey? Here’s what’s in fashion.
The very best of Haute Couture AW23
Before the biannual haute couture shows kicked off in Paris this week, there was panic among the select few travelling to the French capital. Riots, protests and thousands of arrests had dominated headlines following the death of a North African teenager on the outskirts of Paris, raising questions as to whether the haute couture shows should — or even could — go ahead while the country was heading toward a state of emergency. Celine cancelled its show, set to be the first couture outing from its creative director Hedi Slimane, who wrote on Instagram that “a fashion show in Paris, while France and its capital are bereaved and bruised, seems… inconsiderate and totally misplaced”. For the rest of the maisons, however, it was a case of the show must go on. Read more on Haute Couture fashion week here. OA
Dior Tears is making its store debut in London
Remember Dior Men’s AW23 show in Cairo late last year? The spectacular outing saw a futuristic ready-to-wear collection showcased under the lit up pyramids across the desert sky, as well as Kim Jones presenting a masterful collaboration with close friend and collaborator Tremaine Emory of Denim Tears, which was presented in the Grand Egyptian Museum that explored the style of African American expats in Europe in the 20th century searching for a new life. “What they found (in Europe) was not a perfect place devoid of racism, but a place that was different, where they truly got appreciated for what they did and for who they were,” Tremaine said in an interview with i-D alongside Kim. “I wanted to share that moment.” Entitled Dior Tears and inspired by the attire of the likes of Miles Davis and James Baldwin but through a Christian Dior lens – think: earthy and fiery tones juxtaposed on stripe knits, scarves and bucket hats, reimagined workwear, chunky jewellery, thick woven lace trainers and stunning botanical embroidery across caps and varsity jackets – the collection is now making its way to four pop-ups the world over, the first being London! The first time Dior Tears will be available worldwide, the basement space at Phonica Records in Soho has been transformed with the collection on display against giant futuristic balloons and vintage bookshelves. Cute! Open from 8 to 13 July, this is the only pop-up set to be in Europe so check it out while you can! TG
A new exhibition from the BFC documents London’s rebel fashion
A new exhibition at the Design Museum celebrates the 30th anniversary of NEWGEN, the British Fashion Council’s programme to support the best emerging talent coming from the UK and giving them the space to showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. From Alexander McQueen, the late designer’s namesake brand sponsoring the exhibition, to Sinead O’Dwyer, the works of over 300+ designers and 100 fashion objects have been curated by Sarah Mower for REBEL: 30 Years of Fashion and will be on show from 15 September 2023 to 11 February 2024. One not to be missed, get your tickets here. TG
Blumarine by Marc Jacobs is for the good girls gone bad
The Gen Z girlies with severe main character syndrome who listen to Charli XCX and watch The Simple Life are screaming, crying, throwing up right now because their two favourite fashion brands have united on a new must-cop collaboration. Blumarine by Marc Jacobs – as in Heaven by Marc Jacobs – is here and it serves all the Bratz Doll strutting through the high school corridors energy you could want. Fittingly captured by Petra Collins within the walls of a high school, the 11-piece collection sees classics from both brands reworked and both hyper-femmed and given a sexy, punk edge, perfect for The Plastics in the upcoming Mean Girls: The Musical movie. Hot pink camo adorns barely-there mini-skirts, lacy camos and cropped hoodies, whilst denims are distressed and rhinestone-embroidered and layered over pastel pink frilly blouses and skirts. Naturally, there’s a whole lot of chains draped across jewellery and belts, and baby tees a plenty. That’s all to say, the collection is a massive slay! Check it out now online at Heaven and Blumarine, as well as in Heaven stores and Dover Street Market. TG