Stuart Vevers doesn’t shy away from spectacle. His past few shows at the helm of Coach have included a Pier 76 takeover featuring a crew of skaters, cyclists and a full-on marching band; an eerie recreation of an American suburb at golden hour; and a large-scale runway show inspired by the rich history of the city’s beaches, in which the star-studded front row sat on bleachers. For AW23, however, the creative director decided to throw a more intimate gathering at the Park Avenue Armory inspired by New York house parties. Though, of course, it was no less vibrant. “The spirit of getting together and having fun,” Stuart said in the show notes, “that, to me, is the heart of fashion and of New York City.”
Ice Spice and Lil Nas X were doing just that, seated in the front row of the historic, wood panelled hall, as guests were greeted with miniature candied apples under the gilded chandeliers. And once the show kicked off, with Placebo’s “Every You Every Me”, it was clear the spirited energy would carry on through the clothes – the opening look was a grunge-y striped dress, lovingly worn out and replete with holes; a red “NY” apple sewn onto the front. It was followed by a series of heritage leather trench coats and sleek separates: shrunken blazers and low rise, floor-length skirts with the house’s signature hardware, which offered a modern youthful take on the very silhouettes and codes that “define Coach’s American fashion language.”
A number of these pieces also speak to Stuart’s vision of circularity, which involves creating new designs using fully sustainable materials. Leather garments from seasons past and leftover scraps are repurposed and patchworked for AW23, and Coach’s (Re)Loved program gave the house’s bags – this season mini handheld versions in cheeky logo lips, stars and Valentine’s hearts as well as outsized tote carry-alls — and laidback trainers a second life. Silk chiffon slip dresses were naturally dyed with logwood, safflower and marigold using minimal waste practices. A sheer lavender slip dress, worn by Tess McMillan and featuring a cascading ruffle at the bust, was the personification of the very next-gen silhouettes the creative director infused with an easy, approachable take on Hollywood glamour.
Elsewhere, shearling workwear received an edgy splatter effect, paired with destroyed denim, and brushed metallic coats in silver and citrine added a dose of high octane to an otherwise very 90s grunge, combat boot-accented collection. The magic of it, though, was the way that the house’s latest collection seemed to perfectly encapsulate the low-key, “uptown meets downtown” style of dressing seen IRL in the New York City streets, all the while embodying the sense of individuality and youth street culture that really is not seen anywhere else in the world.
“Fall was inspired by our belief that when you show up as you really are, you inspire others to do so, too,” Stuart explained. “The collection presents an authentic interpretation of the heritage and house codes that define Coach, redefined through the next generation’s concept of individuality and expression. There’s a straightforwardness that reflects where we’re headed in the future.”
Credits
Images courtesy of Coach