This season, Phoebe English was all about those handy boys who can help out around the house. Her presentation at the BFC space on the opening day of LFW:M was a beautiful of installation of men and work: cleaning up, vacuuming, pairing socks, ironing, and hanging out the washing. (Although some of the boys did look a bit bemused by the instruction to vacuum up clothes pegs.)
Inspired by the creative men Phoebe knows, works, and lives with, the collection was rooted, as the presentation demonstrated, in a reality and practicality. This meant a focus on function: cuffed trousers, sturdy boots, jackets you can do the washing up in, and bags that can be worn in a variety of ways. This translated into a rough and ready palette of blues, blacks, and greens, that put the focus on silhouette and fabric, and their subtle beauty.
In fact, the fabric was the one nod to a more prosaic kind of luxury. Lush velvet made a welcome appearance alongside the more expected rugged cords and thick denims. There was something active, invigorating, and hardy in Phoebe English this season, a reconciliation with reality that points to an exciting future for the young designer.
Credits
Text Felix Petty