Can you believe we’re here already? The AW23 season has begun with menswear collections already shown at Martine Rose, Gucci and many more in the next few days. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves and to remind us we’re still only a few weeks into 2023, we have SS23 campaigns from Loewe and Alaïa, as well as Chinese New Year celebrations from Bottega Veneta. There’s also some stunning new releases from Gucci, Valentino and PALMWINE, as well as an update on who will be helming Louis Vuitton’s next mens collection and a new face at Prada! Oh, and in the chicest news of all, we have the lowdown on Haeckel’s must-try gut cleanse. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Gucci doubles down on the Jackie
Today may have seen the launch of a new era for Gucci on the menswear front, but far go that to say that the proud Florentine house is done with its classics. In fact, it’s doubling down on them, if the latest campaign for timelessly chic Jackie 1961 bag is anything to go by! Starring Hollywood darling Dakota Johnson, the Glen Luchford-shot image series and film sees the 50 Shades protagonist bobbing about her neighbourhood doing just what Hollywood darlings do – shopping, strolling, lunching, heading to yoga – all with a rainbow panoply of gorge Jackie bags in the crook of her arm. Ah, what we’d give to live like Dakota! Well, running down to your nearest Gucci boutique would be a great way to get started, no? MS
Prada just got a très hot, très French new face
Attention! Attention! New Prada daddy alert! Yes, after officially ushering in the season of the zaddy – aka AW22 – Miuccia and Raf have only gone and done it again, casting the extrêmement dishy Frenchman Vincent Cassel in its SS23 campaign. Eye Catching as his appearance in it may be, though, it’s but one of a number of hooks for the house’s deeply cinematic campaign – with co-stars including fellow actors Hunter Schafer, Jaehyun Jeong, Louis Partridge and Letitia Wright. At the heart of Prada’s visual activation for A Touch of Crude – the collection it showed in Milan back in September – is a short film director by Danish neo-noir auteur Nicolas Winding Refn, who created the immersive set for the show. “Exploring the lives of women and the scope of fluid modern femininity,” a release reads, it makes for a brooding watch, tracing the supernatural experiences of a woman who moves house, only to be plagued by a mysterious black box… Eerie, right? Indeed, it’s a campaign well worth checking out – and not just for the sake of staring at Monsieur Cassel! MS
Bottega Veneta takes to the rails to celebrate the Year of the Rabbit
With the dawning of the Year of the Rabbit just over a week away, we’ve seen a bevvy of luxury houses release campaigns and capsule collections to celebrate the Lunar New Year. Few, however, have gone to quite the same lengths as Bottega Veneta. While the Milanese house has indeed launched an expectedly exquisite campaign, it has also commissioned ‘Reunion in Motion’ a touching film by Chinese director Jing Zhou that captures characters travelling through various picturesque landscapes in China, journeying home to their loved ones for the holidays. To fete the campaign’s launch – and, of course, the turn of the year – sending a whole damn train painted in its signature parakeet green on month long journey across the country. In the place of the Bottega Veneta logo, though, you’ll find the words: “On the roads that lead home, Happy New Year.” The other brands could neva! MS
Maison Valentino Essentials embraces soft masculinity
We’ve seen fashion embrace a more softer side of masculinity of late, rather than the iron man expectations of the past. It’s this fluidity that is also the focus of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest collection for the Italian house he helms. Maison Valentino Essentials is a constantly evolving edit of pieces meant to be both timeless and contemporary. Looking to the style within Italian movies of the 50s and 60s, simplifying the pieces to their universal, gender-free essence and then bringing them into the now, the designer created a minimalist capsule filled with silk pyjama sets in neutral tones, simple shirts with scarf-tie detailing at the neck, striking suit jackets, low-top nappa sneakers, mesh tees and sleek calfskin belts and bags. In this rebellious edit that plays on menswear history and the values of the house today, the designer has created a line that speaks to his desire to craft the uniform of non-uniformity. TG
See Josh O’Connor and Stéphane Bak in Loewe Mens sensual and surreal new campaign
If we should expect anything from Jonathan Anderson, it’s that his work will leave us slightly confused and slightly turned on. For the Loewe Men SS23 campaign, the designer brought his signature surreal vision to a selection of portraits, still lifes and a combination of both, all shot by David Sims. Featuring actors Josh O’Connor and Stéphane Bak snuggled together in bobbly cardis, other photos have Josh in tights with his arms crammed with tote bags, decadent pillows, brown paper and elegant candelabras, or Stéphane Bak lounging on a gothic bed wearing boxer shorts and an olive-toned jacket. It was all inspired by the works of both nineteenth century British painter William Nicholson, and early twentieth century American photographer George Platt Lynes, with references to the two blended together and then dripping in pensive looks and peculiar scenarios that all hint at a surprising narrative and turn this campaign into its own stunning piece of art that belongs on a gallery wall. TG
Louis Vuitton announce the designer behind their upcoming AW23 menswear collection
Rumours have been swirling as to who will take the reigns of Louis Vuitton Men after the passing of Virgil Abloh in late 2021 but for now, it has been revealed that Colm Dillane – the NYC designer behind the graphic and colourful KidSuper, a brand beloved by the likes of Gucci Mane and Jack Harlow – has been working meticulously alongside the French fashion house’s Parisian studios over the last couple of months as a guest designer of LV’s next menswear collection. The studio is reportedly planning on having a constantly changing line up of guest designers for each collection, in a similar vein to Jean Paul Gaultier, for the foreseeable and Colm is the first to take on that position and create the first collection for the house with no input or “specific influences” from Virgil since his passing. What new vision he will he bring to the house for Paris Fashion Week Mens? We only have to wait a couple of days to see! TG
Taiba Taiba has made clothes out of hair extensions and upcycled clothes
Taking fringed clothing to new heights is Taiba Taiba, the hair stylist who has become renowned for her sculptural hairstyles for major fashion labels and Black artists such as Rihanna. Last year she opened an interactive exhibition entitled We Need Some More Black in Hair, that saw hats, homeware, stools and mirror frames all beautifully made with the same braiding techniques she’s applied to Black hair for years. Now, she expands on that premise with a collection of stunning clothes. Entitled Bundles of Paradise – due to the pieces resemblance to tropical birds – bags, mini dresses, brimmed hats, tailored jackets, crop tops and heels are all made with upcycled garments and tresses of billowing hair in vibrant shades, while braided trainers and hats in the collection showcase Taiba’s exquisite techniques. The beauty of these pieces, and the intricate detail and care put into them, are a showcase by the artist of the unique and rare beauty that comes from putting love and dedication into Black hair. TG
Do you have the guts for a Haeckels cleanse?
Ok, so this may be a fashion column, but one things that’s staunchly on our ‘in’ list – and no doubt many others – this year is gut health. While it was, once upon a time, thought uncouth to discuss our inner workings so frankly, times have since changed – and all for the better. Still, for newbies, it’s a bit of a Wild West out there – between all the achingly cool kefirs and probiotic supplements that promise to make you prettier, it’s pretty tricky to figure out what actually works – or, more importantly, what works for you. Mercifully, the wonderful folk down at Haeckels have launched a tailored gut health programme designed to educate you on how the gut works and how to do the very best for your own. Desperate for a reset following an ungodly festive binge, we caught up with Haeckels lead nutritionist, Vanessa Jaich.
How would you introduce the Haeckels gut cleanse? What are its main objectives?
The Haeckels gut-health programme is a transformative experience where you will learn how to improve your health from the inside-out. You will be personally guided by the Haeckels nutritionists, who will support you throughout the process. By providing in-depth education and evidenced-based techniques, we aim to provide you with the practices, resources and habits to optimise your gut and microbiome health; helping you achieve your health goals and optimise your overall wellness.
What’s importance of good gut health? And how does it affect your skin?
You can’t address skin concerns without first looking at your gut health and addressing the microbiome. The gut is at the centre of overall health, and the core foundation of each of our body systems; the gut is known as the second brain, 70% of the immune system is located there, and the gut-skin axis refers to the connection and communication between the digestive system and the skin. This is predominantly achieved through the microbiome, meaning the condition of our skin is often reflecting our gut health.
How does it work? How do you get started, and how long does the programme last?
Initially, you book a free 15 minute discovery call through our website, where we will provide an overview of the programme and get to know you a little better. Once your dates are confirmed, you’ll receive your welcome pack and complete an individual health questionnaire so we can personalise your programme. This holistic journey will provide you with everything you need to transform your gut health, from healing the gut lining to balancing your microbiome. Each week you will meet (online or in-person) with one of our nutritionists, who will guide you into the next phase of the programme and provide your protocols. The gut-health programme runs across 3 weeks (21 days) in total, and comprises four main stages with detailed accompanying protocols: Prepare, Repair, Rebuild and Integrate. Additionally, at the end of the 21 days we provide a Maintain protocol; a completely personalised guide to help you transition and apply what you’ve learned to your day-to-day life. This includes supplement suggestions, resources and the option to book one-to-one continued support.
How does it differ from, say, a ‘classic’ juice cleanse?
This is not a fad-diet or a short-term solution. Our objective is to improve your overall wellness through supporting the gut and microbiome. We have intentionally designed the programme to educate and provide tools that you can incorporate into your day-to-day life to create realistic, long-term habits. There’s a purpose behind each aspect of the programme. Yes, the repair phase involves a four-day liquid cleanse using our seaweed broth, seaweed tea and carefully designed soup and smoothie recipes. Why is this integral to the programme? Because fasting allows our gut to repair and regenerate whilst detoxifying. It gives your digestive system a break. This programme is completely holistic, centred around balance, nutritional education and how to nourish the body to improve your health for good.
Is the programme individually tailored? And how easy is it to follow?
We are all unique with individual needs. Each week you will receive an hour-long, one-to-one consultation with one of our nutritionists, who will get to know you and personally support you throughout your gut-health journey. The overall structure and content of the programme has been carefully created from research-based techniques that help improve gut health. These are universal for everyone. Simultaneously, we ensure a bespoke, personalised experience throughout the programme. When looking to improve your health, we believe that this programme is the place to start. It has been intentionally designed to be accessible to everyone; a clear introductory education that is easy to follow, covering everything from how the digestive system works to the importance of sleep. We provide structured guidance through four extremely detailed, educational protocols that include everything from nutritional basics to biology lessons. Included is a personalised approach that covers your diet, lifestyle and habits; with meal plans, recipes, shopping lists, lifestyle tips, what to eat for your individual needs and much more.
Will I be hungry all the time?
No. The gut-health programme is designed with options for everyone. If you experience extreme hunger during the repair phase, we provide guidance on suitable solid foods to consume to support your fast. There are also level options depending on your individual needs.
What benefits can I expect to gain from doing the cleanse?
– Improved gut-health
– A balanced microbiome
– Clear, radiant, healthy skin
– Shiny, voluminous hair
– Increased energy levels
– Stronger immunity
– An uplifted mood
– Improved sleep
– A better understanding of nutrition and the human body
– An abundance of tools and resources to keep for life
Kaia Gerber channels her mother in Alaïa’s new campaign
It seems rather fitting that model and actress Kaia Gerber should be the new face of Alaïa’s latest campaign, given that her mother and fellow model Cindy Crawford was a muse for the fashion house decades prior. That legacy is embodied in both a shoot by Tyrone Lebon at close friend of the house Ruby Sterling’s studio, and in the Old Hollywood glamour of the budding young actress in fitted red maxi dresses, 50s denim jumpsuits holding loops upon loops of pearls, ruched inky dropping gowns and feathery black boots paired with a fun deep black mini dress. There’s also essentials from Alaïa’s current collection, including new versions of the LeBabel and Le Papa bags. “Kaia fascinates me because she never stops evolving”, Pieter Mulier said in a statement. “She embodies beauty but also intelligence, movement, and empowerment. Everything that sublimates her unique strength. Everything that makes the Alaïa woman sexy and free.” TG
Discover PALMWINE IceCREAM’s Northern Ghana-inspired collection
Since launching PALMWINE IceCREAM in March last year, London and Accra based stylist and designer Kusi Kubi has fast made a name for polychrome, sensually cut clothes – things bust-cladding leather crop tops, cut-out tailoring, and patchworked suede skirts. For his sophomore collection, Mii La, he decided to take a rather more textural tack, pairing exquisite hide pieces with armour like chainmails, repurposed car tyres, and lashings of bright, assiduously sculpted leather. Eager to dive deep into the designer’s world, Kusi graciously gave us the 411 on his latest collection.
Hi Kusi! Could you summarise the spirit of your latest collection for us in 3 words (or set phrases)?
The collection is the antithesis to expiration; it is delicately dramatic; and it’s a celebration of far from homogeneous, showcasing a vast array of traditions within Ghana and its complex history.
What’s the story behind the title?
Mii La is a call to DREAM, to create a fantasy world. Mii La in the Ga dialect means ‘to dream. I wanted it to be fantastical. For there to be a sense of performance and happy drama – all the elements which embody a celebration of life. Mii La heeds inspiration from the predominantly Muslim community in Tamale, the capital city of the Northern Region of Ghana, and the distinctively resourceful re-use and re-working of animal hides of sheep (which were slaughtered for Eid festivities) for a number of uses: prayer mats, bags, wallets, drums, sandals, wall arts and even for a hunter’s bows and arrows and protective talismans. My personal experiences and observations from a visit to the region deeply informed the creative process.
What was the main jumping-off point for the collection?
For a very long time, I was completely mind-blocked. I had some ideas but nothing to really get me started. The jump off point for me was when I visited Tamale – I felt a real connection; I felt inspired by witnessing this lifestyle and society. It evoked something in me to create. I love these kinds of inspirations – they keep you dreaming and dreaming. You suddenly become a kid at a favorite toy store. All you want to do is experiment and have fun.
Is there a particular piece or look that you think of as the cornerstone of the collection?
Look 8 from the collection – the orange leather jacket and vest with the tie-dye pants and reworked used car tyre sandals with leather socks.
What celebrity or style icon do you see wearing the collection? And what are they wearing from it?
Zoe Kravitz. I’d put her in look 18 from the collection: the feathered black wig, leather bra, apron skirt, thigh high boots and gloves.
