Catherine de Medici is widely known as one of the most powerful women in 16th-century France; as patron of the arts, she introduced the French people to a number of artistic and culinary delicacies from her native Italy. Among them, were sartorial flourishes such as heels and corsets that are still very influential today, albeit for different reasons, and Burano lace from royal manufacturers. A feat that deserves to be fêted, of course, which is why Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to Catherine’s luxe sensibilities for Dior SS23.
“This collection pays homage to fashion as an art of invention,” the show notes read, “able to redefine the city of Paris over and over again, each and every time, allowing the multiple facets of its history to live on.”
A pair of spirited dancers, the Dutch sister brother duo Imre and Marne van Opstal, emerged from the Baroque cave-like set — designed by artist Eva Jospin — their surreal and at times jarring movements “reminiscent of the Renaissance” symbolized a “veritable rebirth”. Against this backdrop, Maria Grazia transformed the traditional 16th-century garments of Catherine’s royal court for the 21st-century Dior woman.
The opening look took in the era’s penchant for crinoline skirts, this one was done in an elegant Black floral lace, but with a twist — it was paired with a modern crop top that tied around the midsection. Elsewhere, corsets were updated to frame the bust and layered over blouson tops. The collection offered not only a lesson in French history, but that of Dior as well. In digging into the house’s archives, Maria Grazia landed on a scarf from the 1950s printed with a map of Paris, which she reimagined as corsets and various separates, as well as a signature trench coat.
In her six years at the helm of Dior, Maria Grazia has certainly done enough history-making of her own. With this collection, the creative director proves that in looking back, once more, there is always room for reinvention.
Credits
All images via Spotlight