Véronique Nichanian has been heading Hermès’ menswear for the past 25 years – and is pretty much the living proof than fashion can defy seasons and trends. We thus weren’t exactly surprised when she turned down our stylistic questionnaire, and offered to give us her holistic, philosophical take on fashion. “I’m not going to give you a style guide because this is precisely the opposite of what I do.” She explained to i-D, ahead of the brand’s autumn/winter 15 menswear show. “I loathe fashion diktats. I cannot stand imposing one trend over another, declaring anything obsolete. Fashion is not something totalitarian, but ought to follow you throughout the day.”
1. Mistakes are beautiful
“Nothing moves me more than a so-called ‘mistake’ or ‘faux pas’. A friend of mine once put his leather jacket through the washing machine and it looked fantastic. Clothes should express your inner self: wrong or right doesn’t exist. I was once told white socks were a no-no, so I put them on every single model that season. Some things look better on some physiques, that’s all. I ran into Jude Law when I was travelling through India recently. He was wearing a tank top. He looked great. Pourquoi pas?”
2. Elegance is party invisible
“You are the one wearing the clothes, not the person looking at them. I like to add cozy linings and secret pockets onto garments. I once said make selfish clothing, because I hope the men I dress develop a special, invisible bond to their clothes.”
3. Timelessness exists
“I refuse the idea an obsolescence pre-programmed by fashion and its seasonally pace. Some pieces will always suit your figure and can remain a basic – a leather jacket, a woolen jumper, a great suit. The idea of the right fit is subjective too of course – nevertheless, pieces that are not overly theatrical are likely to survive longer. I chose to experiment with colors instead. Today, looking back at 25 years at Hermès, there is nothing I am ashamed of.”
4. Mobility is a fluid concept
“I think of changing climates, lifestyles and the new needs that go with them. Our lives have dematerialized in many ways. I’m surrounded by men who ride motorbikes, run, take planes, or just go online. We have many lives across the day, and you need garments which adapt to that. You need clothes that you can roll in a ball, throw in a suitcase and wear with elegance a few hours later. I think of the technicality of clothing, new fibers and knits – I started experimenting with things like neoprene or types of needle punch years ago and that pushed me to rethink new lives, new movements.”
5. Beauty ought to tell a story
“So-called perfection doesn’t interest me. I like asymmetry, a broken nose, a face that tells a story about one’s inner self. True beauty doesn’t come without the latter.”
6. Flirt with thyself
“Of course clothes are about seduction. But about flirting and seducing yourself before anyone. Once you are comfortable in your own skin, you can conquer the world.”
Live stream the show on i-D here
Credits
Text Alice Pfeiffer