Has there ever been a chanteuse more elusive than Hope Sandoval? Throughout the 90s, Hope fronted American alt-rock group Mazzy Star, who pioneered the era’s noisy dream pop genre with LPs She Hangs Brightly and So Tonight That I May See. Few videos or photographs exist from Hope’s Mazzy heyday. Among them, the low-fi video for the ever-enduring “Fade Into You,” a bewitching MTV performance and a handful of concert photographs. Despite Hope’s low-key nature, her impact on alt-culture is significant and enduring; the rarity of these media relics makes her legacy all the more salient. Back in 2014, Mazzy video clips and concert snaps became Tumblr touchstones, Hope’s singular style – all slip dresses, mesh and baby tees — shaping the platform’s influential soft-grunge aesthetic. Today, Hope and Mazzy Star’s languid, dreamy sound continues to influence era-defining acts like Beach House and Lana Del Rey.
Here, we take a look back at the ethereal frontwoman’s enduring legacy through seven of her most influential, most iconic outfits.
“Fade Into You” music video, 1993
After releasing their debut LP She Hangs Brightly in 1990, Mazzy Star broke into the mainstream with “Fade Into You.” In late 1993, the single premiered on MTV alongside its now-iconic video. In the clip, Hope Sandoval and her bandmates take an ultra low-fi road trip through the Mojave Desert, the frontwoman wearing her hallmark baby tank alongside a plaid slip skirt and massive sunglasses.
Promotional shoot, circa 1994
Whether in leather or Lurex, Hope always served up 90s babydoll with a side of 70s glam. Here, in a promotional shoot for Mazzy, the frontwoman pairs one of her cute camis with a pair of blue sequined hotpants.
Live on The Beat, 1994
In 1994, Mazzy Star made the TV rounds on big-name spots like Conan and Jools Holland, to name a few. However, one of their most iconic televised performances remains this low-key, rooftop concert broadcast by The Beat. In it, Hope croons “Bells Sing” and “Halah” wearing this sweet baby tee.
On stage, circa 1994
From baby tee to baby cardi. Here, Hope swaps out her signature T-shirt for a lovely pointelle cardigan, paired with a black slip dress. The artist’s look slowly became the blueprint for the era’s many alt-icons.
On stage, circa 1994
A mega look from Hope. Here, at one of Mazzy’s mid-90s shows, she pairs her signature mesh-tee-baby-tank combo with these leather zip-around pants. Major!
On stage at the Shoreline Amphitheatre, 1994
Without a doubt, Mazzy Star’s most legendary concert was 1994’s Shoreline Amphitheatre show, held in Mountain View. Don’t believe us? Since November 2020, a video of the show has racked up over 12 million views on YouTube. In the comments section, fans share accolades (“beautiful”), musings (“Music is the closest thing to a time machine”) and memories (“I was at this concert. I assure you, the world did stop when Mazzy came on”). The setlist is sublime (“Halah” and “Fade Into You”) and so is Hope’s outfit: black baby tank, mesh lettuce tee and a polka-dotted slip skirt.
Photographed by Andrew Catlin, 1994
Hope’s style wasn’t all mesh and baby tanks. Here, in one of Mazzy’s many photo sessions with portraitist Andrew Catlin, the frontwoman layers a velvet two-piece set with a chiffon maxi dress. It’s Edwardian boudoir by way of 90s Prada; it’s ethereal; and it’s perfectly Hope.
Follow i-D on Instagram and TikTok for iconic outfits.