Yesterday i-D traveled to Salzburg in Austria for the 11th annual Chanel Metiers d’Art collection. Held in the historic Schloss Leopoldskron – a stunning rococo palace that provided the inspiration and setting for the 1965 Hollywood musical The Sound of Music – the event was everything you could wish for from a Chanel show and more.
Winding through the historic, mountain ridged town of Salzburg – aglow with fairy lights and Christmas markets – and taking in a warming glass of gluehwein on the way, we made our way to Leopoldskron Castle.
The grand palatial home, situated on the banks of Leopoldskroner Weiher lake, flickered with candle light as we made our approach. Inside guests were met with ornate, gold plated rooms, with painted ceilings, and tables piled high with fruit, Christmas biscuits and Austrian sweets. Waitresses in traditional dress served chilled glasses of champagne as we took our seats in the wood panelled library, complete with roaring fires.
Salzburg is more than just a magical destination for the house of Chanel, the city has historic relevance too. It was at the exclusive Mittersill Hotel in the 30s, just outside of Salzburg, where Gabrielle Chanel – inspired by the lift boy’s uniform – first realised her design for the iconic Chanel braid-trimmed jacket.
“She took an element and made it hers,” Karl Lagerfeld explained at the show. “She made something unique that you can identify in a second, without thinking for one second that it comes from Austria.”
The four-pocketed design was evident in abundance in last night’s collection, which like the location served up a dazzling feast for the eyes. i-D cover stars Stella Tennant, Lara Stone, Lindsey Wixson, Binx, Edie Campbell, Charlotte Free and Cara Delevingne, fresh from her British Fashion Award win, took to the catwalk to model 45 looks that used Austrian national dress as a jump off point to create something truly spectacular.
Standout pieces included cropped, boxy jackets exquisitely embroidered with alpine flora and fauna and wide-legged Sargent Major trousers in pillar box red and navy blue. Austria’s awe-inspiring scenery was brought to life in exquisite embroideries and dazzling jewels that sprung up like spring blooms across capes, hunting jackets and skirts.
As with everything Chanel, the beauty was in the details and the handiwork of the Maison’s talented teams of artisans really shone through. Luxurious handwoven tweeds, delicate edelweiss felt flowers (an Austrian symbol of love), sumptuous Alpine knits and ornate lace blouses that erupted in ruffles around the neck all cemented Chanel’s position as one of the world’s leading luxury houses.
To close the show, Cara and Kendall appeared, arm in arm, with a beaming Karl Lagerfeld in tow. And beam he should. It’s rare that destination, ambiance and pure talent fuse together so beautifully, but last night for Chanel – the French luxury house he has majestically helmed for 31 years – they did just that.
Credits
Text Holly Shackleton
Photography Oliver Saillant