With the Giorgio Armani show closed down due to Coronavirus, Boss — and a surprise Prada press conference — provided the swansong to Milan Fashion Week. Across 72 looks, Boss designer Ingo Wilts presented a thoughtful collection of designs that nodded to both the label’s legacy and its future.
The oval-shaped set was a brilliant shade of mauve, with a raised platform in the middle and flickering and dangling cylinders of light stretching down from the ceiling. Onto this platform walked out a small orchestra, led by composer Henry Scars Struck, who began playing a new piece created exclusively for this show.
It was a swooning, panoramic composition, that beautifully backdropped the show itself. Titled Generations, it was the label’s second show since moving their fashion week operation from New York to Milan. The collection was very assured and poetically put together, arranged across colour schemes, from tans to lilacs to reds to blacks to greys, showcasing the breadth of what the company can do, from sharp tailoring to formidable outerwear, and from confident minimalism to breathtaking craft.
The suits were a highlight, utilising the brand’s craft and expertise to imagine this cornerstone of the business in novel fabrics, silhouettes and colours. It was all about pushing that Boss history into new directions and finding new innovations: a venerable brand seeking a new aesthetic to propel it into the 2020s.
Credits
Photography Mitchell Sams