During the early 1900s, photography became a mode of expression for queer people who were often sidelined and forced to create in secret. But as the century rolled on, bringing with it increasing liberation, this art spilled out of shoe boxes under beds and hidden safes, and onto the walls of galleries around the world.
Today, this pioneering work is inspiring a new generation of queer photographers, who’ve found solace in its unfettered intimacy. Based out of California, a state teeming with beaches and barely clothed bodies for inspiration, gay image maker and designer Jaden Walker is one of them. His photos — sun bleached, candid and deftly composed portraits of his friends and boys who drift into his lens — are indebted to the frames of those who came before him. These 10, from Keith Vaughan to Nan Goldin, are some of his favourite forebears.
Catherine Opie
“Catherine Opie took portraits of queer and gender non-conforming people in front of bright colourful backdrops, in a time when darkness swarmed the queer communities of America. These simple and beautiful photos were considered radical when they were taken, long before the idea of queer representation was discussed in the mainstream.”
David Armstrong
“David’s portraits are some of my favourites. His style is romantic: sharp focus, perfectly exposed, beautiful individuals.”
Herbert List
“Something about Herbert’s photos feel modern despite some of them being taken almost a century ago. Reading about his life as a gay Jewish man in 1930s Germany gives you an even deeper appreciation of his work.”
Tom Bianchi
“Tom’s polaroids of friends and lovers in Fire Island Pines are some of my favourite photos of the 20th century. Each photo is like a nostalgic memory of fun, sexy, sunny days spent in this queer paradise — away from the reality of repression and judgement in the 70s.”
Walter Pfeiffer
“Walter’s photos feel like dreams I’ve had. His book Welcome Abroad illustrates a sweet combination of beauty and eroticism.”
Libuše Jarcovjáková
“Almost none of Libuše’s work seems technically perfect, but offers little unfiltered insights into a fascinating life. My favourites of hers are the photos of the underground gay scene in 80s Prague, and the intimate portraits of her male and female lovers.”
Nan Goldin
“An icon of her craft, Nan took strikingly intimate and emotional snapshots that make you feel nostalgic for an experience you might’ve never had. She shot moments with her friends and lovers from a point of view outsiders would never see.”
Keith Vaughan
“His black-and-white portraits of boys at the beach, shot in the 1930s, never cease to make me feel something each time I look at them. His collages of paintings and photos also feel very ahead of their time.”
Ryan McGinley
“Ryan’s photos in The Kids Were Alright are like a glimpse into his personal diary. His point-and-shoot work is honest, exciting and voyeuristic. They make me want to place myself in wild and dangerous situations for the sake of a photograph.”
George Platt Lynes
“George Platt Lynes made ethereal and homoerotic photos in the 1930s and 40s that were kept hidden while he was commercially successful in the world of fashion photography. His lighting, composition and subjects are breathtaking.”