“We’re not the kind of people who do things just because — the timing needs to fit,” says Carol Song of the type of collaborations she pursues as Fashion Director of Opening Ceremony. We’re talking about the brand’s 10-piece capsule collection with Burberry, which launches today, and features rainbow colors and 90s, rave-inspired graphics. “I think with this being Christopher Bailey’s last collection, and all about celebrating LGBTQ, and the other component being the rave scene — we were like, that sounds exactly like what we want, that resonates with our girls and guys. This is the perfect opportunity.”
Bailey’s last collection has been much remarked upon for its rainbow flags and queer spirit. What’s less discussed, however, was the inspiration it took from 90s rave culture. “We wanted to talk about the rave component because everyone else was talking about the LGBTQ component, and we wanted to shed light on a different side of it,” laughs Song. Photographer Salvatore Caputo took the collection to Kiev and spent a day and night photographing it on local ravers, imbuing the imagery with the kind of authentic, chaotic spirit OC has always pursued. “I think you guys actually did a piece on it, i-D was covering what was bubbling in Kiev. So I read a lot and was so inspired, and I felt like it was the last place on earth that was giving authentic rave, not like a commercial version of what’s happening in Berlin.”
Why are people so obsessed with everything Eastern European, beyond the Gosha effect? “I think everyone’s fascinated with Eastern European culture because it’s so far away from what we have,” Song says, again referencing the kind of freedom and authenticity that young people are so desperate for right now. “It’s always in our conversations, and we want to find a way to bring a little bit of it to OC.”
Buy the collection here.