It’s Couture week and just by the ancient buildings that run along the avenues a few blocks away from Opera, we meet ladies behind Dice Kayek at their atelier. Founded in 1992 by Turkish sisters Ece and Ayşe Ege, the brand began its life as women’s ready-to-wear collection before becoming members of The Fédération Française de la Couture in 2014. After passing through large Haussmannian double doors, we enter the studios and meet a hurried team preparing for their show in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs the next day. Seamstresses, a stylist and models are all present and while we expected to greet a nervous crew, we instead were met with a calm and warm vibe and a scene reminiscent of a family gathering- a rare commodity in fashion today. Passionate about couture, a patrimony that they staunchly defend, Ece and Ayşe, are using their clothes to build a bridge between Istanbul and Paris, marrying the cultures and modernity of the two cities that they hold so dear. Between final alterations, the sisters told i-D about their personal vision of fashion, couture and femininity.
Why did you start getting involved in fashion?
Ece: From a young age, I knew that I wanted to be involved in something creative. My beautiful mother had incredible taste and was a very elegant person. She has been my constant inspiration since my childhood, so I chose to study fashion in Paris. That was the beginning of this great adventure…
Was couture a natural progression?
Ayşe; We have been designing ready-to-wear collections for 23 years. In that time, more and more technical know-how and expertise was needed to bring our very specific designs to life. The shapes, the hand stitching, the finishing and all the techniques synonymous with couture became more and more important for our more elaborate dresses. That process in the making of collections eventually lead us to couture.
What do you think couture can stand for in 2016? Is couture relevant today?
Ece: Couture used to be all about the ostentatious dresses, mostly created for special occasions until recently. Now it has shifted to a new level. We can call it ‘couture-to-wear’, more wearable designs for day and for evening. Amongst the couture buyers, uniqueness and rarity remains extremely important. They are looking for the most exclusive and custom-made dresses in the world. Therefore, couture, of course, has an important place in the market today. It’s a niche market but very profitable actually.
Why attracted you to Paris for your shows?
Ayşe: After my school, We established the brand name and company here. Paris will always be the epicenter of fashion and Couture can only happen in Paris.
There’s a real sense of community in the atelier. Very familiar and calm- is it that the key to your success?
Ayşe: The heart of the brand is our team. We work, create and progress together. Most of the team have been with us a long time so we have grown together, just like a family. Creating couture is like a choreography, every step has to be followed perfectly by the next one and everyone has to harmonize and know what their responsibility is. Our work is a result of mutual recognition and respect.
How would you define the Dice Kayek women?
Ece: As we were born and raised in Turkey, the Turkish tradition of craftsmanship and the historical heritage of Ottoman Empire definitely has an influence in our work. That can be seen in our passion for embroideries for example. On the other hand, we have lived in Paris for more than 20 years and have experienced French tailoring and traditions first hand, for many years. So this combination has become our DNA but not our only source of inspiration. What also inspires us is the beauty of architecture and the structure of object and through the collections of ready-to-wear and couture you can see and feel this influence. I would say eccentricity and refinement is the perfect description of the Dice Kayek woman.
What are your immediate hopes for the brand?
Ayşe: To meet an investor who will help Dice Kayek to grow in the right direction!
Credits
Photography Elise Toïdé