In recent years, Karl Lagerfeld has used each Chanel show as an excuse to push the boundaries of what you’d believe was possible for a fashion presentation. He has created an airport, a cafe, a casino, a grocery store, an art gallery and a bistro — even a complete city street. At this point, Karl’s work rivals that of Hollywod’s best set designer. Consequently it came as surprise that his haute couture catwalk show on Tuesday went in the opposite direction. Rather than indulging in fantasy, creating another surreal “Chanel World”, Karl offered a glimpse into reality: behind the curtain.
The set was a recreation of the Rue Cambon ateliers where the collection was made. Models walked between pattern cutting tables, rolls of fabric, dressmaker dummies and neatly dressed Chanel seamstresses.
While the clothes were clearly the focus, it was impossible not to let your eye wander to the busy creatives in the background. One understands these pieces are works of art, but it’s rare to actually witness the artisans as they create the garments. Before the show, Karl said “I thought it was a modern idea that they should participate, so that people pay attention to them because the craftsmanship is so unbelievable. I think they should be shown, too.”
At the close, rather than take a bow with a supermodel draped in a wedding dress, Karl Lagerfeld stood with the heads of his ateliers. It was a touching moment where we witnessed not only the work of these artists, but also the friendships between them. From the outside, he often appears an otherworldly, alien-like figure. But seeing Karl hold hands with his team, you’re remind, above all, that he is a designer — and most likely a friend.
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Text Wendy Syfret