photographed by RAMONA JINGRU WANG
Chengdu is my dad’s hometown. When I was a kid, I came here during school breaks, passing through, tagging along, never fully inside the picture. I remember sitting around while adults talked, the click of mahjong tiles, the sense that time wasn’t in a hurry to go anywhere.
Coming back now, what stands out is its people. The way they move. The way they talk. The way they don’t rush to explain themselves. Chengdu’s looseness feels unperformed. There’s room to be a little strange, to move a little slow, and to be yourself without commentary. The city is shaped by the space its people make for ease, curiosity, and their own way of being. Through simple questions and wandering conversations, this is Chengdu, straight-up.
Zhenqiong Xie, 64
What do you do? I worked at a bank. What do you love most about Chengdu? Chengdu feels relaxed. Wherever you go, there are always people around, lively, good vibes, good energy. It’s just a great city to hang out in. Where’s best to eat? Chengdu has so many snacks. The street in Yulin with the little bars is the most famous, and there’s also Fanghua Street, which was developed just this year. It’s very lively too, lots of food. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? I’d suggest going to the parks to watch people drink tea, play mahjong, and just walk around. Definitely try the local snacks. You can go to that street in Yulin with the small bars, and Fanghua Street as well. What do people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People think Chengdu folks are just here to have fun, a bit lazy playing mahjong all day, sunbathing whenever the sun comes out, like nobody works. But actually, Chengdu doesn’t get that much sun. Going out to sit in the sun, drinking some tea or coffee is totally normal. Chengdu really is just relaxed like that. The secret to happiness is… For people like us who are retired, happiness is just being happy every day, not thinking too much. Walk the dog, wander around. That’s enough. Only in Chengdu… do you see people playing mahjong everywhere. Go take a look, in the afternoon, it feels like everyone is playing, and some people start first thing in the morning. I used to play too before I had a dog. Now that I have one, I don’t go anymore. What music have you been listening to lately? I listen to everything. Songs by Chen Rui, and Tibetan songs by Tibetan singers. Every day when I get home, I just turn on music and listen to it.
Gary Chau, 36
What do you do? I have other jobs, but most of what I do is online. What are you wearing today? The jacket is a North Face puffer. The pants are something I bought online, which I don’t know the brand of. The shoes are Keen hiking shoes. What do you love most about Chengdu? Chengdu is pretty inclusive. No one really pays too much attention to what you’re doing. The city has a lot of beautiful scenery, and people get along quite well. Where’s best to dance? I don’t know how to dance. I usually run in my daily life. Where’s best to eat? I like eating noodles in Chengdu the most. I actually prefer eating at home. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? Walk around like a local. Yulin is pretty nice. It shows more local shops aimed at visitors from outside the city. If you want to experience real local life, you can walk along the Jinjiang River near Sichuan University, like around Wangjiang Park. The local atmosphere there is much stronger. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People often think Chengdu has more gay people than other cities. In reality, every city has quite a few but Chengdu is just more inclusive. And because it’s become known for that, there might be more people here now, but Chengdu isn’t only defined by this. The secret to happiness is… having family around. Only in Chengdu… do you find such a laid-back way of life.
Xueling Wang, 23
What do you do? I’m still a student right now. I graduate next year, and I’m majoring in New Media. What do you love most about Chengdu? I think it’s the relaxed, comfortable vibe people have here. There’s a saying, “Young people shouldn’t stay in Sichuan, old people shouldn’t leave it.” When you’re young, staying here can make you too comfortable and less ambitious, but when you’re older, it’s a really good place to live. Where’s best to dance? I’m actually not that into nightclubs, but I know the Lan Kwai Fong area is probably pretty good. Where’s best to eat? The best food is fried potatoes from old street stalls. There’s also Yu’er Roast Chicken in Jinjiang District, that’s pretty good too. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? You should look for hidden little spots to eat, the hot pot places at famous landmarks aren’t really that authentic. The secret to happiness is… being easily satisfied. People keep moving forward in life, but feeling content is the most important thing. If you’re greedy, it’s very hard to ever feel fulfilled. Who is your style icon? If we’re talking about social media icons, I really like the blogger Tao A Gou Jun. Their content is very creative, and the ideas behind it are strong. I want to do creative work like that too. I don’t want a rigid, boring job.
Tong Zhou, 24
What do you do? I’m an elementary school math teacher. What do you love most about Chengdu? I love the everyday atmosphere here. After meals, you can just go out and walk around. There are always people “checking in” and taking photos. It feels like I’m “checking in” every day myself. Where’s best to eat? I love Chengdu-style chuanchuan. I think it’s the most comfortable way to eat. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? If you have enough time, it’s best to stay in one area and explore it day by day. I’d recommend staying around Chunxi Road, Yulin, or Dongjiao Memory. If it’s your first time, you might want to go to famous spots like Jinli or Kuanzhai Alley, but after that I don’t really feel the urge to go back. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? I haven’t really heard any big misunderstandings, but lately I’ve heard people say Chengdu folks are kind of “magical.” For example, when you go cycling on the greenway, you’ll see the sidewalks are packed with people sitting and chilling everywhere. Visitors might find it strange, but locals think it’s totally normal, it feels a bit like being in a trance. That might be something people don’t quite get. The secret to happiness is… relax a bit, don’t overthink things and don’t put too much pressure on yourself. Only in Chengdu… Do pandas count? I think pandas are something you only really associate with Chengdu. Who is your role model? Not exactly a mentor, but a male elementary school math teacher I met when I first started teaching. I really like his way of life and his personality.
Haibin Yang, 60
What do you do? I’m a retired freelancer. I studied fashion design in Suzhou before. These days I mostly paint, drink tea, have a drink once in a while, and travel around. What do you love most about Chengdu? The overall social environment and cultural atmosphere here are really wonderful, relaxed and romantic at the same time. This street is full of coffee shops, and young people come here with a very romantic feeling. Painting and drinking tea here, time passes quickly. It’s very comfortable. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? When you come to Chengdu, the most important thing is to blend into the local culture and way of life and enjoy the city’s sense of ease. Don’t rush from morning to night and from night back to morning, that kind of traveling loses its meaning. Travel is about seeking inwardly; if you only look outward, it becomes tiring and exhausting. The secret to happiness is… Happiness is freedom: living toward the light, leaving when you want to leave, arriving when you want to arrive. Freedom of action and a joyful state of mind.
Xing Xing (Star), 24
What do you do? I’m a forensic pathologist. What do you love most about Chengdu? I love the pace of life here. It’s comfortable. People move slowly. It’s not like some other big cities where everyone’s rushing around with no time to communicate or connect. Here, people spend more time interacting with each other and hanging out with friends. Where’s best to eat? I really like a place called Renshen Wagyu Rice. It’s more Japanese-style, hamburger steak served with rice, with lots of different flavors. I love it. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? Definitely don’t follow the crowd to tourist spots like Kuanzhai Alley. The snack stalls behind People’s Park are great, you can try lots of local Chengdu specialties there. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People have very strong stereotypes about Chengdu. They joke that all the guys who come out of Chengdu are gay, that the only straight thing in the city is a utility pole, everything else is “bent” (means queer in Chinese). But that’s not necessarily true. The secret to happiness is… communicating more with the people around you, and spending more time with the people you truly care about. Only in Chengdu… can you see all kinds of cute gay guys. (LOL) Who is your role model? My life role model is my father. Ever since I can remember, whenever he made a decision, he never did things vaguely or half-heartedly. He planned clearly and followed through with determination. He’s upright and principled: wrong is wrong, right is right. He never twists or blurs concepts. He’s had a huge influence on me and shaped my personality. I don’t like beating around the bush, I prefer being direct.
Xinyi Xie, 22
What do you do? I work in new media operations. What are you wearing today? A sweater with oversized pants. I bought them online. I usually like a cool, more low-key style. I don’t really pay close attention to designer names. What do you love most about Chengdu? The food, for sure. I’m from Sichuan, and Chengdu’s food suits my taste the best. Where’s best to dance? I practice traditional Chinese dance and I haven’t found a suitable dance studio yet. When I was in school, the school would invite teachers to teach classes, but right now I’m not sure where the best place to dance in Chengdu is. Where’s best to eat? I love all kinds of hot pot. I just like spicy food. I can’t really say one place is the best. As long as it’s hot pot, I’m into it. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? I’d recommend going to Mount Qingcheng. I like hiking, and I think it’s really worth visiting. Shopping areas are everywhere, but among scenic spots, Mount Qingcheng is great. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People think Chengdu’s pace of life is very slow. Compared to other first-tier cities, it is slower, but not that slow. After I started working, I actually feel the workload is pretty intense. The secret to happiness is… eating something really good. Who is your style icon? My idol is Lay Zhang. What music have you been listening to lately? Recently I’ve been listening to Khalil Fong’s “Twenty-Three,” because I’m about to turn 23.
Tingyin, 21
What do you do? I’m currently a student, doing a master’s degree in Public Administration. What are you wearing today? Honestly, it’s kind of a random mix. I originally wanted to wear a sailor outfit, but I couldn’t find the bow tie, so I swapped it for a necktie, and it actually looks pretty good. It was a bit cold, so I put on pants underneath. I just mixed everything together and went out like that. What do you love most about Chengdu? Hot pot. I think the best thing about Chengdu is hot pot. Where’s best to dance? The basement level at Tianfu Hong. Where’s best to eat? Honestly, those little fried dishes and home-style stir-fries downstairs in residential areas. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? Go take a walk around Tianfu Square. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? Since I just moved here, I actually feel Chengdu matches its stereotypes pretty well. The stereotype is that Chengdu feels young and very inclusive, even when I dress like this walking down the street, no one really gives me a second look. The secret to happiness is… Living in the moment, just taking care of each moment as it comes. Who is your style icon? An underground idol I follow. Her name is Ruila Ruila.
Xinzi, 25
What do you do? I work as a sales assistant at a clothing store. What are you wearing today? The top is an Adidas piece I found secondhand at the market. The pants are from Taobao. I don’t remember the brand. What do you love most about Chengdu? I love the everyday, lived-in vibe of the city. It feels very relaxed. Where’s best to dance? I’ve been listening to more electronic music lately, and I want to check out a new place called Flight. It’s in Wuhou District. I’ve been busy going out a lot recently and haven’t had the chance to go yet. Where’s best to eat? Of course hot pot, what else is there to say? Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? Just don’t go to the tourist attractions. Wandering around anywhere is fun. People’s Park is pretty nice. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People think Chengdu locals have bad tempers, but that’s not true at all. People here are actually very easygoing. The secret to happiness is… Thinking less makes you happier. Only in Chengdu… There’s nothing super specific. It’s more the mindset here. People are very calm, kind of Zen.
Ganlu, 22
What are you wearing today? The jacket I’m wearing today is from Uniqlo, and the necklace was something I bought on TikTok for 3.9 RMB. Since I’m on the morning shift today, I didn’t really dress up. I’m wearing pajamas underneath and just threw a jacket on before coming out. What do you love most about Chengdu? I love Chengdu’s sense of ease, which is not something that feels forced. It’s very free and incredibly inclusive. For example, when a lot of foreigners come here, in other cities they might get stared at, but in Chengdu that doesn’t happen at all. Locals will even say hi and start chatting with them. Where’s best to dance? I like going clubbing at Bamboo in Lan Kwai Fong. It has a tropical rainforest vibe, and the cocktails are really good, lots of herbal and spice notes. I mostly go there for the drinks. Where’s best to eat? I’m not picky and I’m not afraid of spicy food. Even though I’m not from Sichuan or Chongqing, I love Cao’s Duck Neck. I think it’s seriously good. The secret to happiness is… being able to live the way you want, not being tied down by too many things, and feeling free and comfortable in your own life. Only in Chengdu… no matter who you are or where you’re from, whether you’re a foreigner who doesn’t speak great Chinese, or someone from another city with pink hair, you won’t get weird looks. People are openly friendly. That kind of unconditional inclusiveness feels especially strong in Chengdu.
Luoyun, 18
What do you do? I work in marketing at a bar. What are you wearing today? There’s no specific inspiration behind it, I just look around and borrow ideas. I do want to recommend a Taobao shop called Argue Culture, though. Their 1807 platform shoes are pretty great. What do you love most about Chengdu? People in Chengdu are easy to talk to and easy to connect with. The overall vibe feels kind of “magical”, very comfortable. Where’s best to dance? I don’t really dance, but I do go clubbing. I usually go to Jinronghui W15. Where’s best to eat? I like hot pot and Thai food. I think both work really well in Chengdu. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? You can start by walking around Chunxi Road and Taikoo Li, then head to Dongjiao Memory. You could also grab a drink at Jinronghui W15 and experience the scene there. The secret to happiness is… Eating lots of good food, living a bit more casually, and just being happy. Only in Chengdu… you can live so freely here, eat when you want, have fun when you want, and feel comfortable around other people. Who is your style icon? I don’t really have one. I live pretty loosely, and when it comes to clothes, I just look around for inspiration. As long as I’m happy, that’s enough.
KK, 20
What do you do? I’m still in school. I’m applying to undergraduate programs right now and planning to study music management. What do you love most about Chengdu? I think Chengdu is very inclusive, even dogs are allowed inside shopping malls. Where’s best to dance? I don’t really go clubbing. I usually hang out around the Nanhe River area in Wuhou District. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? It depends on the person. For younger people, I’d recommend Dongjiao Memory, Quantum Street, and the Erxianqiao area. What do you think people misunderstand most about Chengdu? A lot of people think Chengdu having many gay men somehow defines the city, but from what local Chengdu people say, that’s not really the case. The secret to happiness is… paying more attention to your own feelings. For example, at home I like to decorate my space nicely and choose things I genuinely like. Only in Chengdu… can you see such a wide range of people on the street, all kinds of outfits, all kinds of styles. Who is your style icon? My style icon is a blogger on Xiaohongshu called La Shu. His style is very versatile, American vintage, Japanese office wear, and secondhand styling all look great on him.
Taozi (Peach), 60
What do you do? I retired a long time ago. Now I’m just enjoying life. What are you wearing today? I don’t put too much thought into it. If something looks good and feels right, whether online or in a shop, I’ll buy it. I also like learning how to dress from young people. What’s the best thing about Chengdu? Definitely the relaxed atmosphere. There’s so much good food, and plenty of places to hang out and have fun. Where’s best to dance? I don’t really dance. I prefer doing runway walks. What’s best to eat? Fish hot pot! When you eat it, it’s seriously satisfying. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? You have to go see Sanxingdui. It’s so unique. The secret to happiness is… Taking it easy, relaxing, and feeling free, that’s enough. Only in Chengdu… Mahjong, gaiwan tea, and beautiful scenery like Jiuzhaigou. It’s all just so good. Who is your role model or style icon? When I was young, I really loved Fei Xiang.
Piaoyun (Cloud), 60
What do you do? I’m retired now, so I get to arrange my time however I like. What’s the best thing about Chengdu? Chengdu has four distinct seasons. Spring and autumn are especially comfortable. There are so many parks and gardens. It’s perfect for taking photos. Where’s best to dance? I don’t really go to dance venues, but I often take part in large-scale performances. What’s best to eat? It has to be Sichuan cuisine like boiled pork slices, twice-cooked pork, and yellow catfish hot pot. Every dish is delicious. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? I’d suggest visiting museums. You can learn a lot about Chengdu’s history and culture. The secret to happiness is… Being able to decide how you spend your time, eating comfortably, and taking trips to nearby attractions.That’s happiness. Only in Chengdu… There are so many great travel destinations around the city. That’s what makes life here so enjoyable.
Money
How old are you? Age is a social construct. I am forever young. What do you do? Full-time good boy. Part-time emotional support. Freelance street patrol and snack quality control. What are you wearing today? Natural fur coat. Seasonal shedding edition. Plus one limited-edition sticker on my head that says “Money.” Very high-end. What do you love most about Chengdu? Dogs can go everywhere. Malls. Cafés. Parks. Sometimes even places I’m not supposed to be (but I look innocent). Where’s best to dance? Any spot with music and slippery floors. I spin when I’m happy. Where’s best to eat? Wherever humans drop food. Also hot pot tables, if no one is watching. Advice for someone visiting Chengdu for the first time? Walk slowly. Sit in the sun. Drink tea. Pet dogs. Repeat. What do people misunderstand most about Chengdu? People think it’s lazy. It’s not lazy. It’s efficient relaxation. The secret to happiness is… Treats. Walks. Being told you’re a good boy. Not necessarily in that order. Only in Chengdu… You can nap for three hours and everyone respects it. Who is your style icon or role model? Any dog with confidence, a full belly, and zero anxiety. Also me.