Courrèges‘ creative director Nicolas Di Felice seems to have a thing for motorcycles. As seductive as it is intricately minimalist, the brand’s AW25 pre-collection wouldn’t feel out of place on the backs of a hot biker gang who hang out in Parisian clubs rather than roadside saloons.
Taking inspiration from the personal wardrobe of Gianni Piacentino, a mid-70s conceptual artist, the collection leans into Di Felice’s fascination with shapes, featuring a circle motif that builds upon the geometric patterns present in AW24’s “Carré Magique” (or “Magic Square”) collection. (Even AW24’s Mark Borthwick-shot campaign carried that same energy.)
As for the clothes themselves, there are thoughtful details perfect for the open road abound: tops are cut to sit like a second skin on the body (including one made of bonded ecru lace); leather bras are embossed to resemble snakeskin; and harnesses from biker boots are reinterpreted as hardware on dresses. Those harnesses extend to a looped leather strap, ideal for holding all the possessions one might not want to carry – whether you’re in the sweaty depths of a rave or on the streets of Paris.
Meanwhile, hidden pockets, micro-stud embellishments and nude-illusion tattoo-printed mesh call back to the club-wear look that has come to be Di Felice’s signature. Perfect for those who want to bear – but can’t quite commit to – the heavily tattooed skin of a bad boy motorcyclist.
To mark the launch of the collection, we caught up with Di Felice to find out what his design space soundtrack is, the collection’s muses and the accessory he created to curb his disdain for queueing at the club coat check.
What music were you listening to while designing?
A lot of Benelux hard house from the 90s and 00s lately… but jazz at home (which is new)
How would you describe the style of the collection?
Clothing for day and night at the same time (you can unzip your skirt when the evening comes).
Who would you love to see wear this collection?
The more the better 😉 Honestly, I don’t really focus on one person when I design the clothes. I can imagine Mark Eydelshteyn, ASAP Rocky, one of my friends or myself.
Which are your favourite pieces from the collection and why?
The Magic Circle in lace, because I love to see a known principle of the house in another fabrication – it changes a lot. Or the Python bra and Holy Eclipse bag with the strap detail to hang your sweater when you don’t want to go to the cloakroom (which is always the case!).
Credits
Words: James Parkes
Carousel Photography: Nicolas Di Felice