Last weekend, California’s Brookside Park played host to an estimated 70,000 fans of goth, post-punk and alt-rock music for the second edition of Cruel World Festival. With headliners including Iggy Pop, the Human League, Gary Numan and Siouxsie — her first US show in 15 years — the crowd naturally skewed a little older. In amongst the OG goths, however, lurked an array of cool teens and twenty-somethings there to connect with the community, embrace “being a freak” and simply see their favourite bands perform live.
While some discovered the aesthetic through their love of the music, others were raised by goth moms or even ex-goth model grandparents. No matter the entry point, Cruel World brought with it a day of legendary artists and endless self-expression inspired by Elvira, Joan Jett, David Bowie and Vivienne Westwood.
A pre-festival announcement might’ve promised good weather and “100% chance of angst and despair” but a mood-appropriate thunder storm loomed overhead. Before it had a chance to interrupt proceedings, photographer Miriam Marlene Waldner met festival-goers and quized them on their playlists, their style icons and what being goth means to them.
Bettie, 21, horror makeup artist
Why did you come to Cruel World?
Cuz of these 80s bands I love so much.
What does being goth mean to you?
Well I was raised by a goth mom, so it grew on me.
Who is your style icon?
I’m inspired by a fusion of different 80s looks but mainly Elvira.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
Black Cat, “London After Midnight”.
Kandia, 30, model & archivist
Why did you come to Cruel World?
To see all the old school acts and check out the scene.
What does being goth mean to you?
Romance, freedom, self-expression.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
Blade (1998) and have raindrops in my hair, like I’m walking in a storm.
Who is your style icon?
Grace Jones.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Coffee Cold” by Galt MacDermot.
Ash, 22
Why did you come to Cruel World?
For the community and music.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
Goth cowboy vamp???
Who is your style icon?
Bowie.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
Bowie’s “Lady Grinning Soul”.
Lexie, 21, hotel worker
Why did you come to Cruel World?
Because I love music and being around cool ass people.
What does being goth mean to you?
Being yourself, loving the music and being a good person.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
It’s just a piece of fabric that I safety-pinned with a boa.
Who is your style icon?
Elvira.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Blood N’ Bones” by Tragic Black.
Kimberlin, 30 & Sasha, 23, both musicians
Why did you come to Cruel World?
K: Boy Harsher.
What does being goth mean to you?
K: Being yourself and beating your own drum.
S: Doing whatever the fuck you want!
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
K: “All The Things She Said” by t.A.T.u.
Who is your style icon?
K: Andy from the movie “Pretty in Pink”.
S: Johnny Rotten.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
K: “Hong Kong Garden” by Siouxsie & the Banshees
S: “Lost in a Moment” by Forever Grey.
Winter Rose Valentine, 21, model
What does being goth mean to you?
Being yourself and going against the grain with killer music.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
Princess trad goth.
Who is your style icon?
Myself.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Poor Hearts” by Strawberry Switchblade.
Katie, 22, student
Why did you come to Cruel World?
Being kind of a freak and loving the music.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
Haunted doll.
Who is your style icon?
Nina Hagen.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Loose” by Primer 55.
@katherineilonarose
Lilah, 23, taxidermy museum worker
What does being goth mean to you?
Sharing common interests with people; finding a place to feel okay and comfortable.
Who is your style icon?
David Bowie.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Kiss Kiss Bang Bang” by Specimen.
D’Jauné, 32, non-clinical case manager
Why did you come to Cruel World?
My grandfather was part of the goth scene in the 80s, so I grew up listening to that music and hearing stories of his time as a model. He saw a lot of the artists when he was young and I never thought I’d have an opportunity to do the same.
What does being goth mean to you?
Being comfortable and confident in myself and how I choose to present myself to the world.
Who is your style icon?
Joan Jett.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“Spellbound” by Souixsie & The Banshees <3
Rhys, 21, experimental filmmaker
Why did you come to Cruel World?
Gang of Four, Love and Rockets, Siouxsie.
What does being goth mean to you?
Beautiful music.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
Cockroach batcaver.
Who is your style icon?
Johnny Slut.
What’re you listening to on repeat right now?
Ausgang.
@cabinet.cadaver
Karoline, 18, songwriter and poet
Why did you come to Cruel World?
For the goth music, for Siouxsie.
What does being goth mean to you?
Freedom.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your look today.
I went with a black and silver colour scheme with a grungy goth twist.
Who is your style icon?
Ville Valo.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“For You” by HIM.
Erin, 27, stylist & costume designer
Why did you come to Cruel World?
To see the bands I was raised on.
What does being goth mean to you?
Freedom, community, acceptance.
Who is your style icon?
Siouxsie, Vivienne Westwood, Colleen Atwood.
What song do you have on repeat right now?
“A Brain in a Bottle” by Thom Yorke.
Credits
Photography Miriam Marlene Waldner