Nicola Formichetti does not design Diesel Black Gold, but the creative director’s capsule work for the Italian label has aligned it with high fashion labels of a similar aesthetic and re-invented Diesel’s innate street cred. It was obvious in Monday morning’s show in Milan where the rock ‘n’ roll wave that’s once again been hitting menswear over the past seasons shaped a new Diesel. For spring/summer 15, Andreas Melbostad abandoned his futuristic, hyper-Italian cyber-rave-biker infatuation for what is affectionately known in fashion as ‘thrift shop chic’.
All super skinny, military jackets blended with insignia-clad motorcycle jackets, lacquered jeans, vibrant colour jeans, and tailoring in velvet, creating a rather British look that wasn’t totally void of Diesel’s trademark Italian pizzazz. Peeping out from underneath blazers and a trench coat, zipped racing tops were an unexpected, great detail, which fused Diesel’s sporty speed legacy with Melbostad’s new mod vision for the house.
Credits
Text Anders Christian Madsen
Photography Mitchell Sams