Glædelig fredag, my loves! Though the 2022 calendar might soon be over, 2023 is just a hop, skip and a jump away and with that comes the AW22 runways of course. No sleep for the well-dressed wicked! Preparing for the chaos of the new season Copenhagen have officially announced the hotly anticipated line-up of shows and designers at their next fashion week. See you all there! In the meantime, we have some more pressing fashion news including Diesel opening up their 90s, 00s and early 2010s archives to shop; MATCHESFAHION making sustainable and unique garms with Our Legacy; a new ring from a fashion icon; an i-D x Jaeger-LeCoultre event you’re all invited too; and Daniel Craig being sexy and camp for Taika Waititi and Belvedere’s new short film. We also chat to a Berlin designer who’s hoodies are the obsession of the likes of Zendaya! Here’s what’s in fashion.
Copenhagen Fashion Week announces their AW23 brand lineup
Heralded as one of, if not, the most eco-conscious fashion weeks in the world, Copenhagen Fashion Week have upped the ante once more for the upcoming AW23 season, by ensuring that all brands on the calendar are just as focused on sustainability as they are fashion design. “Three years ago, we announced that Copenhagen Fashion Week in 2023 would introduce mandatory Minimum Standards for brands to comply with in order to be admitted to the show schedule,” CEO Cecilie Thorsmark explained. “We simply wished to rethink our platform and use our position to contribute to accelerating the sustainability efforts of the fashion brands that make up CPFW. Ever since, we have been working closely with the brands to support them through various knowledge sharing activities and to prepare them for an extensive application process this season.”
Now, just this week, CPFW announced their AW23 lineup, featuring a number of Danish mainstays like Ganni, Saks Potts, (di)vision and newcomer A. Roege Hove, as well as participants in the CPHFW NEWTALENT program supported by Circulose® — Latimmier from Finland, P.L.N. and Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen from Denmark. The scheme not only provides monetary support and mentorships, but guides young designers through the process of putting on an official calendar show and all that comes with it. Having had the chance to catch the exciting Latimmier and P.L.N. debuts last season, we can’t wait to see what the new cohort whip up for January. Before we hit the runway in the new year, documenting all the best shows first hand, be sure to familiarize yourselves with some of our recurring faves. ND
Fashion king Raven Smith has designed a ring
Vogue columnist, fashion guru and Instagram icon Raven Smith has partnered with V by Laura Vann on an enviable ring that is a must for any jewellery box. Designed by the witty writer as one of the guest designers of The Bling Ring — no, not those teens who broke into the houses of Beverly Hills stars like Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan and raided their wardrobes in the 00s! The Laura Vann project where she closely collaborates with some of the most talented people in fashion — the 18-carat gold loop encases a standout garnet gemstone at its centre and lettering around the edge. “When I had the opportunity to create my own bespoke ring, I saw this as a vast and exciting project with limitless possibilities. Creating this ring with Laura has been a true joy. Through my imagination and her painstaking attention to detail, we were able to create something that is personal, unique, and beautiful,“ said Raven in a statement. If you want a statement ring that Alexis Neiers and her LA friends would risk jail time for, go check out the Raven Smith Ring on V by Laura Vann now. TG
Get a timeless and ethical piece of British craftsmanship from Our Legacy and MATCHESFASHION
We stan a sustainable and one-of-a-kind, personal fashion piece you can keep a hold of forever and Our Legacy has partnered with MATCHESFASHION on a project that allows you to do just that! The independent Swedish brand is leading WORK SHOP, a 12-piece collection exclusively available at the MATCHES Mayfair Townhouse at 5 Carlos Place in London, made from deadstock of iconic British heritage brands. Suits and tailoring are made from residual British fabrics, knits come from the leftovers of Scottish yarn and shirting is put together from the discarded hand-woven wools of Harris Tweed. Then, Our Legacy’s own deadstock fabrics are upcycled into Baracuta G9 Harrington jackets. What’s more, each piece can be customised to make them completely your own. Or a cute gift for someone else too! Shop the pieces now at 5 Carlos Place or at matchesfashion.com. TG
Shop pieces from Diesel’s 90s and 00s archive
If you count yourself as even a vague fashion fan, then one of the brand resurgences you’ll have been most keenly following is, of course, Diesel’s. In the seasons since Belgian enfant terrible, Glenn Martens has taken up the helm of the Italian fashion brand, it’s popularity has boomed to such an extent that it’s now seen as a major proponent of the seemingly unending Y2K revival. As impressive as Glenn’s micro-minis and twisted denim experiments are, though, Diesel has a proud three-decade-long tradition of subversive design that predates his arrival at the brand. And now, thanks to an impeccably curated pop-up in London, you can acquire sought-after pieces from across its history. On Saturday, courtesy of Josh Cook — the person behind the twos, London’s latest IYKYK shopping spot for fashion savants — and Lulu Bullock — the Diesel-head behind @dieselarchives, a celebration of the brand’s iconic design legacy — you’ll be able to shop 80 to 100 pieces dating from the early 90s to the early 2010s at twos’ location on Hackney Road. That’s not all though! As part of what the pair are describing as a “Diesel shrine”, pilgrims will also be able to view archive runway footage, peruse ephemera and get snapped by William Wright of @zerocoolarchive for a forthcoming zine! Oh, and as if that weren’t enough to tempt you — there’ll also be a Diesel outfit competition with some truly stunning prizes up for grabs. If you know what’s good for you, put the pedal to the metal and speed on down to twos! MS
Come celebrate the stunning Art Deco beauty of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most iconic timepiece with us
Girlies, if you are currently free on 15 December then you’re not anymore (and if you’re already busy, cancel those plans) because i-D are hosting an event with Jaeger-LeCoultre. To celebrate one of their most famed watches, the Reverso, and its Art Deco style, a panel will be led by i-D’s fashion features director Osman Ahmed, alongside some of the most esteemed voices in the world of design such as letter artist Alex Trochut and archivist and founder of Oswalte, Jenna Fletcher. There will of course be drinks too, so come and get festive with us, a bunch of young designers and fashion experts and learn all about one of the most iconic design pieces of the 20th Century. Confirm your attendance to the event at 180 The Strand, London, at the link here! TG
007 let’s loose with Belvedere
Daniel Craig left the James Bond franchise and said “I’m going to give my gay fans exactly what they want”. Not only is he reportedly starring in the new Luca Guadagnino movie based on the controversial William S. Burrough’s novel Queer, he’s also ditching the suits and signature gin and vermouth cocktail for tight-fitting vest tops, leather jackets, metal chains and Belvedere Vodka… oh, and a diamanté DC grill. Yes, in a short film by hallowed director Taika Waititi for the Vodka connoisseurs, 007 is now a muscle jock leather daddy (always knew he had it in him tbh). Stepping out of his private car, he camply shakes his hips and flicks his limp wrists through the corridors, a hotel room and what looks like a low-lit underground sauna, on his way to make himself the drink he’s been secretly craving for decades whilst being the face of shaken-not-stirred martinis. What’s more, the entire thing is soundtracked by a song by Giggs and the icon that is Rita Ora (yes, apparently the whole thing could get even more camp). TG
Meet Thibaut Knapp, the Berlin designer making spiritually healing garments beloved by Zendaya
In trying times such as these, we could all do with a bit of extra protection. And we’re not just talking about objects that stave off physical harm, but also those that offer a sense of emotional and spiritual preservation. Creating clothes that offer just that is one of the principles that motivates young Berlin-based designer Thibaut Knapp. A graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, his work fuses an intimate appreciation of the natural work, a technically-obsessed design perspective, and an obsession with historical mysticism. High-minded as that may sound, he’s managed to distill this all into one of the most accessible, universally appealing garments there are — the hoodie! Rich with handpainted, spiritually-invested motifs, Thibaut is rapidly accruing a legion of fans — Zendaya among them, no less, for his artisanally crafted, one-of-a-kind riffs on the humdrum garment.
Here, the designer tells us about the emotional process behind his work, his dream of David Attenborough copping a hoodie and the Arthurian epic of a story he created with Berlin-based photographer Joseph Kadow.
Hi Thibaut! How would you introduce your practice in three words or phrases?
Embodying decayed flamboyance through garments. Emotional landscapes becoming wearable sculptures. Creating a wardrobe for the contemporary wanderer.
What’s the main jumping-off point for the hoodies you create?
I had made a hoodie a few years back painted with dragons, my spirit creature (as all my friends know). Before the pandemic, Joseph Kadow asked if I could make one for him. At the time I had begun my relationship with my partner Paul, and as I made the hoodie the figure of two spooning shadows or “empreintes” appeared, which later became my official brand logo. It’s such a universal yet personal representation of love, everybody has experienced this position. So I guess the main idea is to glorify the immense power of love.
Give us three images/objects that are on your moodboard.
At the moment I have sets of images of the LiDAR technology — it’s this breathtaking tool used to excavate buried archeological structures with laser and infrared. The images are like layers of geological times. Most remains of Mayan temples in Guatemala were found this way.
Then, I am currently re-reading Ghosts of My Life, a book by Mark Fisher. His concept of “hauntology” interests me deeply in relation to my obsession for archeology and things that vanished and are decaying, especially given the current uncertainty of our future. It’s quite a dark book but it keeps me sane to have it near me when I work.
It sits on my desk next to my collection of stones I gather during my hiking trips. Some are covered with moss, and lichen fungi. My favourite is a dark quartz stone my boyfriend found, you can see the tectonic plate grind very clearly! They are the core part of the new collection I am developing now.
What do the hoodies you create embody or represent?
The Ritual hoodies carry a powerful message of love and empathy. Behind the illustrative beauty of the hand painted motifs, there is a potential to access a dreamscape. They are like metaphysical cocoons the wearer can find comfort in.
To me, making these unique pieces is something intimate, done in the peace of my atelier. I inject love in them through every hand stroke, and the motifs appear like magic crop circles carved in the earth, only here it is fabric. People who wear them can feel this flow of energy from my portal to theirs — it’s like a contemporary armour to survive the dark times we live in.
Tell us about the images here. What sort of conversations were they born of?
I wanted to add another layer of symbolism to the Ritual Hoodie story. This series is an ode to Tolkien of course! Being a huge fan of the medieval period and all the fantasy that came out of this time, I wanted to join this with a contemporary garment — a hoodie. We also wanted to keep the notion of an epic narrative, which is central to my work. It was very important to get my friends to model in this project. That way, it became a common quest. We looked at paintings to inspire the poses of the models. John William Waterhouse’s Pre-Raphaelite revival of the medieval figures; Edmund Leight’s paintings of knights; Queen Joanna the Mad, this haunting painting by Francisco Pradilla; Chiaroscuro Rembrandt masterpieces and many more.
What makes Joseph Kadow’s creative perspective distinct? What makes him an ideal collaborator?
Joseph is such a natural visionary. He has this understanding of my world and vice versa. Since the first time we met back in 2017 in Berlin, we became very close friends and collaborators. Not sure how to describe it; it is more of a feeling. We just click, and very quickly wonderful things appear. He has shot all my work and it resulted in the most poetic and epic images. He also was there since the start of the hoodie, and he immortalised my love for my boyfriend in a short film to present the spooning logo.
What celebrity/style icon do you see wearing your work? Where are they, and what are they wearing from it?
Might sound specific but how cool would it be to have David Attenborough wear my hoodie while talking about a paradise bird in the rainforest? My ultimate icon would be Björk wearing one of my nature inspired dresses. I would also love to see Caroline Polacheck and FKA twigs wear my work. My silicone plant dresses or the reflective couture dress from my last collection, they would look stunning in them.
I felt so happy to have Zendaya purchase my Mud Green hoodie; seeing that she actually wears it in her private time and loves it is a big achievement. Also many people from artistic fields like artist Donna Huanca or Zara Larsson push me to pursue my creative visions. My biggest joy, though, is to see my friends wearing my pieces. I am grateful for the love I received through my practice, especially for the APOC Store team who took me under their wings from the beginning. They have been an incredible support and I am glad to be part of this dazzling creative adventure. And the best is… it’s only just started!
Credits for Thibaut Knapp images
Photography Joseph Kadow
Fashion Thibaut Knapp
Creative Direction Thibaut Knapp
Set Design Thibaut Knapp
Post Production New Layer Berlin
Talents Paul, Felix, Jannik, Mimi, Chima, Ines, Hannes, Thibaut, Alannah