Fashion news this week is giving summer. We have a beachy Coach Pride campaign, Thistle Brown’s uber-chic sunglasses, Fendi activewear and all from the Dior and LV Cruise shows on majestic islands and in stunning Mexico. The UK’s a vibe at the moment too, not just because Beyoncé is currently staying in a hotel in Sunderland for her tour and the sun has come out for it, but because Machine-A are back in business in Soho! Oh, and we have the must-see collections from this year’s Central Saint Martins’ BA graduate show. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Dior makes Mexico City the latest stop on its world tour
It’s no secret to anyone at this point that travelling shows are well and truly back, but few are doing them quite like Maria Grazia Chiuri over at Dior. Since the easing of the pandemic, the house’s creative director and her team have staged perhaps the most geographically broad series of spectacles of all the major luxury brands, bringing Maria Grazia’s vision of emboldened femininity to everywhere from Mumbai to Seville. Last weekend, Dior landed in the latest locale along its ambitious world tour — Mexico City.
Why Mexico City? Well, more than just a place on MGC’s city break wishlist, there is a long-standing relationship between the Latin American metropolis and Dior. In fact, it dates all the way back to Christian Dior’s very first collection in 1947, in which a dress simply titled ‘Mexico’ featured. Then, Marc Bohan presented a show in the city during his tenure as creative director, and John Galliano delivered a characteristically high camp sartorial homage to the country for AW02.
On this occasion, though, Maria Grazia drew from a rather different source of inspiration compared to her predecessors. In keeping with her commitment to uplifting and celebrating the legacies of women artists, the collection she presented was essentially an homage to the life and work of Frida Kahlo, the great Mexican painter. Looking to both her unique, irreverent sense of style and the manners in which she depicted it in her famous self-portraits, the collection echoed the versatility of the artist’s dress sense, but also a number of her work’s defining themes.
The opening black velvet dress, with shoulders shrouded in intricate lace, and louche tailoring set a sombre, sensuous tone that was quickly counterposed by delicate white lace dresses and geometric jacquard smocks that suggested a sense of fragility. This tension between bold empowerment and vulnerability — one that characterised much of Frida’s own life — served as the collection’s conceptual throughline, oscillating between shadowy columns in weighty velvets and wools, and airy silhouettes in white cotton plissé and diaphanous scrims of lace that floated down the runway with an almost angelic lightness.
The sense of colour for which Frida Kahlo was renowned came through in a later passage of looks — jewel-toned satin blouses with billowing pleated skirts — and in a continuation of Maria Grazia’s longstanding commitment to working with a global network of creatives, the rich embroideries seen across the collection were created in collaboration with artisans from across Mexico. MS
Louis Vuitton cruises through Lake Maggiore
Water became an unexpected theme of Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2024 show, not just because of the show’s location on the privately-owned island Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore that belonged to Italy’s Borromeo family for five centuries, but because of the torrential downpour that suddenly forced the show indoors. This was supposed to be a parade of sci-fi mermaids through the island’s majestic gardens, which was where scenes in Star Wars were filmed (a lodestar reference for the house’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière) and widely considered to be some of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world. Read our full review here. OA
Coach celebrates Pride with a beachy campaign
To celebrate Pride 2023, Coach took friends of the brand Papi Juice, Fran Tirado, Ashley Lukashevsky, Jonah Almost, Alaska Riley, Xunami Muse and more, to the seaside to pay tribute to Fire Island Pines and Cherry Grove, the legendary queer enclave off the coast of Long Island. Photographed by Jun Lu in the capsule collection, which nods to some of the island’s iconic establishments – including Belvadere, Tea Dance, Cherry’s and Pines Pantry; as seen in graphic Cashin Carry 22’s, collectable logo tees and rainbow stitched platforms and tabby clutches – the house’s latest offering is all about celebrating individual style, creating safe spaces and the joy of getting ready with your friends… which is all we’re really here for, tbh! This year also marks the 10th year of partnership between the Coach Foundation and the Hetrick-Martin Institute, and continuing partnerships with Point Foundation and CenterLink: The Community of LGBTQ Centers, which all work to create supportive environments where LGBTQIA+ young people can thrive. Cheers. ND
Stylist Thistle Brown launches his own chic blackout sunglasses
As we might’ve mentioned, it’s summer! And you know what that means – it’s time to pull out all your best shades and hit the beach, or better yet, purchase a new pair to usher in the warm weather. Naturally, we’ve got you covered, with the latest in chic blackout shades – perfect for a night out or even the morning after – no need to look further than stylist and photographer Thistle Brown’s new collection of eyewear, which also marks the debut of his namesake label THISTLES. The first style, the AL, modelled here in the campaign by Camilla Deterre, Dev Hynes, Coco Gordon Moore and i-D cover star Simona Kust, is a chunky wrap-around frame that somehow, magically, frames every face just right. Available in four black and tortoise variants and inspired by a 60s Jackie Onassis look with a twist of 90s edge, we’d expect no less of a design feat from the New Zealand-born, New York-based stylist, who also works closely with designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh. With the style already hitting the streets of New York City and beyond, it’s best you read on to familiarise yourself with THISTLES, and don’t forget to grab a pair here – before they’re gone! ND
Hi Thistle! How does it feel to be releasing your debut eyewear collection?
It feels like being in the right place at the right time. I’m excited to share something with people and let the frames take their own shape with the people that love them. I like that sunglasses travel, I like that they have function, I like that they can make you hide or even better – be seen.
Can you tell us about the design process? How long has THISTLES been in the making, and did you have a specific vision in mind?
I’ve been working on this for two years with my business partner Callan Malone. She’s worked with me for over six years as the glue to many of my creative projects. I’ve always had the idea in the back of my mind that when I was ready to launch something on my own, eyewear would be the perfect place to start.
My vision for the brand always was and will stem from people that inspire. People generally consider me an image-maker. So, naturally, at the inception of the brand, its focus was always to define a strong visual identity. Something that feels considered but also playful, in its own way. I like the idea of how tactile a message can feel regardless of medium whether it’s stills, video, music. It’s all the threads that form the fabric. Something aspirational and familiar. Those are my codes.
The campaign features friends of the brand who are New York icons in their own right. Who are your ultimate style icons?
Growing up in New Zealand, which is so far away from everything, you are a voyeur by default. So, for me, the people I see on the street that are effortlessly on form and truly themselves speak to me most: Greta Garbo’s retired, uptown off-duty, Meg Ryan’s downtown, Dean & Deluca era, Rowland S. Howard for suits, Sade, always, everyday, Al Pacino in the 80s/90s. In NYC, it’s Camilla Deterre, Andre Walker and Haley Wollens.
How are you personally styling the AL?
My own personal style is very comfortable and low-key. Fabric composition is priority – my background is in textile design – so material has always been the foundation to my work. I am wearing my AL’s with some army Comme des Garçons cargo pants, a vintage plain white T-shirt, an Elsa Peretti necklace my best friend Ana gave me and some Kelme Michelin Star 360 Indoor Shoes in red.
What’s next?
We have a few things up our sleeves… obviously we will be developing additional styles and possible collaborations to follow. Eventually, we’ll aim to expand into other areas… clothes with intention, quality and wearability is the goal.
Emerging designer store Machine-A re-opens in London’s Soho
Over the past decade we’ve crammed ourselves within the corridor flanked by two long rails and a centre table in order to check out the very best of both emerging and established brands at the luxury concept store Machine-A. And while being spiked in the eye as you try to squeeze between a fellow customer and a Chet Lo top on display was part of the fun, that era is no more: Soho’s Machine-A has had a makeover! Having been shut for a little while for renovation, the space on Brewer Street has now reopened with a similar Brutalist aesthetic to the one at the new Machine-A Shanghai, both designed by architect Peijing Lu. The Kvadrat x Raf Simons textile collection brings together the seating and fitting room style across the store, while a temporary art installation makes the space even more of a cultural hub. The logo has had an upgrade too, designed by Paul Hetherington, with a dystopian font that is fitting for the futuristic offering on the rails.
What’s more, the store now covers two floors (!!!), giving more space to peruse the curation of Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Martine Rose, A-Cold-Wall*, Y/Project, Coperni, Nensi Dojaka, Olly Shinder and many more on offer. TG
R&B icon Foushée covers the 8th edition of Carhartt WIP’s magazine
Carhartt WIP’s biannual in-house magazine is back for its 8th edition and this issue is a global exploration of city life and culture. Gracing the cover is New Jersey-born, LA-based singer Fousheé who turned TikTok virality into a blowout, genre-defying music career. There’s features on the forgotten architectural gems of Italy, Berlin’s skate scene, an LA sculptor known for her cute and abstract animal pieces, archive photography from Paris’ REX club, ghettotech and more. There’s also a stunning portfolio on the modern metropolis through the lens of illicit bike couriers, Tokyo graffiti artists, novelists, curators and NYC skaters. Get yourself a copy from Carhartt WIP stores or at carhartt-wip.com. TG
Fendi Active’s new collection takes us to the basketball court
Italian luxury house Fendi have dropped their latest breezy activewear menswear collection that has you ready to be the next Basketball pro… or, at least, dress like one. Featuring airy vests, tees and shorts with a lived-in retro vibe (like you were given a pair from one of the greats), alongside sports socks, wristbands, headbands, caps and even a basketball all emblazoned with the brand name and double F monogram. There’s also glittering Fendi Match sneakers, now in a hi-top version, so you can take the shoes from a win on the court to the celebratory after-party easily. Check out the full collection on the Fendi site. TG