Fashion’s equivalent of The Hunger Games is upon us. Kicking off last Sunday in New York at eternal it-Kid Chloë Sevigny’s loft sale, the proceedings continue this week with DSM Market Works, a spring clean of 80,000 pieces from their inventory, held at Printworks, the gargantuan former printing press in south London. Whether it’s those Miu Miu AW22 belted shorts or a set of deconstructed barrettes worn by Chloe to Bahrain’s premiere of Julien Donkey Boy, the treasures on offer have sent the fash pack into a frenzy.
We’ve seen resellers tug of war over Stüssy x DSM hoodies, Chloë-signed caps and cigarette packets for Downtown cool kids, and aggrieved shoppers publicly mourn the loss of their all-time grails, snaffled up by the faster hypebeast. But the marathon ain’t over yet, so we’re sharing our dos and don’ts to cross the fashion finish line unscathed.
DO:
Have payment backups
Opportunities like Chloë’s closet cleanse come once in a lifetime, and yet, countless fashionistas came up short when it was time to pay out. Fumbling through their purse, lips atremble, they pleaded with a higher power to magically manifest the accepted payment type, wishing they had read the small print and planned ahead. “It’s good to know in advance if they take Venmo, cash, credit card, etc,” says Paper magazine’s former editorial director, Mickey Boardman, who was on hand that fateful Sunday. “There were a bunch of people who thought they could pay with credit cards but couldn’t, or couldn’t pay with Venmo because their phones were dead.” Luckily, Mickey had chargers.
Wear practical clothing (and chic undies)
DSM’s official VIP preview was swathed with industry insiders, which – frantic hellos and howareyous aside – made for an unusually enjoyable Monday. That is, until the reality of the situation kicked in. The changing rooms were nowhere to be seen, encouraging only the most debased act of capitalistic mania: disrobing in front of colleagues. Fortunately, our very own fashion features editor, Mahoro Seward, knew better. “I like to wear clothes you can easily put stuff on top of,” they explain. “I’ll wear a loose skirt you can put trousers under, and then just a t-shirt you can layer stuff over. ” After all, while you may be there to buy runway-worthy looks, save yourself the hassle that’ll come of turning up in one. If you’re reading this while queuing and it’s already too late, though, check your undergarments. Mahoro spotted some “grim, holed-up boxers”, a sight no one needs – not least on Planet Mode.
Stake your claims
As soon as Chloë’s closet sale organiser, fashion editor Liana Satenstein, posted a sneak peek of one tartan, bowed Vivienne Westwood bag being sold, makeup artist Niko Haagenson decided it was his, despite being roughly tenth in the queue. “Everybody knew I wanted that bag, so when it came out, I didn’t have to fight anybody,’ he remembers. “Also, I found one of Chloë’s tampons in the bag.” Bonus points!
DON’T:
Splurge — or at least do so within reason
Sure, the SS20 Noir Kei Ninomiya laser-cut frock is a work of art, and, yes, that otherwise forgettable cricket sweater Chloë wore when she met her husband has a cool story (you had to be there), but your rent is overdue. Unless you’re a bonafide archivist, edit your pick, and opt for forever pieces and iconic steals. Croc-textured Margaux bags by The Row? Tick. Manolo Blahniks lightly worn by Miss Sevigny? Double-tick. The Heaven by Marc Jacobs handbag in silver? Drop it! Depop has plenty to go around. “As with any form of shopping, the same rules apply,” says ES Magazine’s Hannah Tindle. “Think, ‘Will I really wear this?’ I came away with two things: a dove-grey Junya Watanabe coat (just in time for summer) and a pair of quilted loafers by Abra in a matching shade.”
Queue (or queue less)
Queuing is intrinsic to British culture, but it’s also a social activity more respected in the US, as Sunday’s glorified Chloë Con made clear. That said, you can ease the burden with some teamwork. “I went with a couple of my friends. We took shifts,” says model Gabrielle Richardson. “During, one would go get water, food, charge the phones.” Not into queue camaraderie? Rent a queuer! Currently, Instagram is awash with people soliciting themselves as line mules for hourly rates. Chances are, you’ll save enough on your Simone Rocha showpiece to warrant the expense. Plus, you don’t need to pull a sickie.
Be catty
It’s hard to maintain decorum when a rarefied Comme Des Garçons SHIRT tote comes between you and a former colleague – let alone your partner. Unfortunately, dear reader, when my boyfriend’s hand met mine on Monday, it was not in a public display of affection, but instead, a cruel match of taste. Reduced to animal instincts, we squabbled in hissing whispers while my former employers watched on with proxied embarrassment. Excruciating, it did remind me to check myself, a memo those stockpiling the Kiko Kostadinov x Hysteric Glamour tees did not heed. “Respect your fellow shoppers’ personal space,” says set designer Gary Card. “Don’t barge or barricade yourself in a little clothing fort. Everyone hates a rail hog.”