For many, the telltale signs of spring’s arrival are things like the return of the dawn chorus, the first daffodils or seeing the first hints of blossoms at the tips of cherry trees. For us, though, the one thing that really gives us faith that lighter, brighter days are on their way is Dover Street Market’s spring/summer seasonal changeover. Every February, each of the Comme des Garçons-owned network of concept stores undergoes a complete refit for the sunnier seasons, with existing brands reimagining their spaces, and new ones taking up residence for the very first time.
In Dover Street Market’s London store, SS22’s arrival has brought with it a bevvy of some of the most exciting emerging fashion talents out there, from NYC-based collective Commission to artisanally-minded LA label Airei. In celebration of their arrival across the Haymarket emporium’s four floors, we sat down with six of this season’s new arrivals to hear more about their collections, the worlds their brands are part of, and who else they’re checking out on their next visit to the store.
Cornelia Andersson, SIBYL Studio
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in five words?
Romantic, Natural, Thoughtful, Adaptable, Calm
Where are you based?
Crystal Palace, London
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
I decided to use the word ‘Urskogen’ as a starting point for the collection, it’s a Swedish word for primaeval forest. Looking at vintage newspapers and illustrations of magical forest landscapes in old books I combined parts of myths and history to create Chapter V for SIBYL.
What’s your favourite look from it?
The Chicory Shirt and Chicory Skirt in Sky Blue
Where are you wearing it?
Everywhere!
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
Comme des Garçons, Egg and always the well-curated jewellery space
Molly Dilkes, Dolly
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in five words?
Stay streamline, pet nice dogs.
Where are you based?
London
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
British beach culture. I grew up going on camping trips around UK coastlines for holidays. I think a lot of these lifestyle brands naturally stem from beautiful sun-soaked places, so it’s funny exploring beach apparel from a less typical standpoint. You’re at the beach and Dolly is the first layer of clothing you put on when the temperature drops a couple degrees.
What’s your favourite look from it?
I love the yellow and green shirt – the colour combination makes me immediately happy, it’s very uplifting. The dolphin camo print is also a favourite of mine.
Where are you wearing it?
Anywhere and everywhere — at a party, at the pub, at the beach. I like to think it’s pretty wearable in any situation or setting. My grandma has worn it — she’s about to turn 92 and spends most of her time gardening.
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
I’m excited to be joining the store at the same time as my friend Nick who does Always. Big legend — his clothes will put a smile on your face!
Drew Curry, Airei
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in five words?
Unique, like you and me.
Where are you based?
Los Angeles, CA
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
Our SS22 collection is titled: “I Like America and America Likes Me” which is was taken from one of my favourite Joseph Beuys actions. I was thinking about unity, and the idea of the healing between two seemingly hostile ideas or partnerships.
What’s your favourite look from the collection?
The Mask Sweater.
Where are you wearing it?
This piece I didn’t make for me. This piece was made for an idea. I made this for your inner hero.
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
When I was at DSML last, I purchased a Comme des Garçons Homme Plus shirt. I would do the same if I were there again.
Kenneth Nicholson, Kenneth Nicholson
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in five words?
Energetic, creative, romantic, prophetic and sincere.
Where are you based?
Currently, we work out of Los Angeles and NYC.
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
For our SS22, I was inspired by 90s music, specifically grunge culture which was a casebook study of how art reflects culture. Growing up in the South and being into art and fashion design I was misunderstood. Music was then and remains a key element in design for me. The collection, titled Cy Falls, named after my high school, really captured that energy and youth and innocence of the time but restated through the lens of the brand with high craftsmanship and romanticism.
What’s your favourite look from it?
I love the understated beauty of our vintage crewel floral pants. I think the Dorcas Mantle is also one of my favourite silhouettes. It is so versatile and it carries a certain energy. It’s really a piece that the wearer can interpret. When I developed it, I was thinking of a new piece with the inspiration of 90s grunge via Kurt Cobain. The way we interpreted it with the fine construction and detailed fabric-covered buttons speaks to the commitment and sincerity that we have toward craftsmanship and taking these mixed notions of something like grunge and romanticism and making them exist harmoniously in a garment.
Where are you wearing it?
Honestly, everywhere. When I am working, when I am out with friends, when I am going out. It was really designed to be an elevated fashionable piece that subtly broadens the narrative of menswear.
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
I’ve been a long time fan of Alaïa so I’m always interested in viewing their work. I think the way that their label approaches design is masterful. ERL is another really great line and I think there is a sense of awareness with the craft that comes across which is something that I am personally interested in as well. Comme des Garçons is another label that I find deeply inspiring. You really can tell that there is a balance of intellect as well as an intuitive nature to their work.
Jin Kay, Dylan Cao, Huy Luong, Commission
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in 5 words?
Nostalgic, corporate, camp, eclectic, slightly subversive.
Where are you based?
New York.
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
Our SS22 collection is called “1975, Vise Versa”. The collection started with a question — “what if we could merge what happened in the West in 1975 and that of Asia, specifically Vietnam and South Korea?” One being a celebration of freedom, spiritual escapism, whilst the other was of what’s left behind from war and political upheavals. We revisited our first collection (SS19) and deconstructed/reconstructed those pieces to explore the idea of preservation and reconstruction, exposing undergarments by destroying parts of their outers.
What’s your favourite look from it?
The Versa trench coat and Assembly dress in butter charmeuse.
Where are you wearing it?
To the bodega, to work, to dinner, to a nightcap.
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
One of us definitely loves a Craig Green jacket, also D’heygere, Wales Bonner and Molly Goddard.
LUAR
How would you summarise the energy of your brand in five words?
The future of the culture.
Where are you based?
NYC, the gorgeous rotten apple.
How would you introduce your SS22 collection? What was the conceptual starting point for it?
With this season I really wanted to tap into both dimensions of LUAR: the soft and the rough hard ridged side. I figured myself like an oyster.
What’s your favourite look from it?
I love the knit and twill belted jacket – it’s a show stopper. It’s so good in a way that you can dress up or dress down and you still look iconic! There’s also the geometry belted vest, and of course the incomparable legend herself the Ana bag!
Where are you wearing it?
To ride the train to go have dinner at Balthazar or to grab a NYC slice of pizza!
What other brands are you checking out while in-store?
Maximilian, Wales Bonner, Jean Paul Gaultier… and LUAR!