Elissa McGowan makes clothes with organic free flowing shapes informed by rock formations and natural landscapes. Four seasons deep, after the hand of fate and good judgment picked her as one of the top four TAFE students to show at Sydney Fashion Week in 2013, her openness adds to her appeal.
What does your to do list look like?
I have just finished showing Autumn/Winter, so I’m about to start production on that before Christmas, before everyone goes away and goes swimming. I’m starting to think about Spring/Summer and if I’ll be doing a presentation for Fashion Week. Going on a holiday is also on the to do list. I’ve had a pretty intense 12-months so I really would like to go on a holiday.
When you started out, were you envisioning the same girl wearing your designs as you do now?
I think she’s probably more refined each season, as I’ve finished studying I definitely keep evolving. I still feel like the Elissa McGowan girl is probably not 100 percent a locked in woman. I don’t think I’ve completely nailed her.
Obviously you’ve been fascinated by clothes for a long time. What’s your most embarrassing signature look through the ages?
Oh god there’s so many. Do you know who Stacie Orrico is, do you remember that singer? She had that song called “Stuck”. I was really obsessed with that song so on mufti day in year seven I channeled her. I remember wearing a stripy scarf, an off-the-shoulder top, and flare jeans.
Ooh, off-the-shoulder. Full AFL wife styles.
So much!
Is there anything your mum would never let you wear?
Yes. Definitely. So many things. Stripes with florals, actually any mixed patterns. Jelly Bean sandals, clogs. Mom! I feel like I missed a chunk of childhood without Jelly Beans.
Yeah you never got to inhale that new pair smell!
Totally! I remember finding these amazing platform glitter ones and eyeing them off from the escalator.
Now what are we most likely to see you wearing?
I love high waist flares, wide leg pants. Anything that’s a bit 60s or 70s I suppose. I love a good suit, love a good blazer. And jumpsuits!
Back to your work, where does a collection start for you?
Usually I start to develop a concept while I’m doing the previous collection, just because it’s exciting. And when you’ve worked on something for a long time it’s good to look at something new. Making the mood board is my favourite bit. But usually when you start maturing, you don’t let it be driven by a theme—you don’t want it to be too literal. It’s more about a feeling.
And where does it end?
It ends with me collapsing on the bed. After shooting the collection. Its a pretty big process.
How do you know when it is done, when to leave it and stop adding or subtracting?
It’s hard stopping yourself, a deadline is important. I guess the more resolved you are, you learn that enough is enough. When you’re in the midst of it, it is hard to know when a garment is done. I often feel cloudy in the middle of it. Afterwards, when it’s out of your hands it’s pretty easy to know if you’ve gotten it right or not.
You’re an Australian fashion designer, but do you see your work as being inherently Australian?
I think I draw from the landscape a bit; Australia is so beautiful and we’re so lucky to be informed by our landscape. And beach culture is such a big influence on the way we dress. But I think I’d like it to be seen as an international brand that isn’t just limited to an Australian audience.
Where else are you drawing from?
I’m endlessly inspired, but nature is one place where lots of cool things are happening. Rock formations and free-flowing lines, and anything that is organically irregular. And I always come back to art. Its important to keep learning and researching.
Would you ever give up your own label to direct an existing one?
I don’t think I’d give it up forever, but it’d be interesting to do it for a while. It’s really interesting seeing designers go and explore their vision in another way. So many amazing designers have worked for Chloe, I’d love to go there. If they’d have me.
Does spare time exist for you?
No it doesn’t. But you have to make it. I work a lot better under pressure. It’s unhealthy not to have spare time. In my spare time I like to sleep. Or read. Or spend time outside because it is a luxury. And annoy my cat Sam.
Editor’s note: This headline and text of this article was amended at the request of the subject on September 27, 2018.
Credits
Words and photography Hayley Morgan