After Kiko Kostadinov’s first limited-edition Asics trainer — the elevated “dad shoe” GEL-Burz 1 runner — sold out earlier this year, it should come as no surprise that the Bulgaria-born, London-based menswear designer has reunited with the running specialists for an update. Step forward the GEL-Burz 2.
In a crowded and noisy market in which even the highest of high fashion brands are chasing the trainer dream, the popularity of the debut took even Kiko by surprise. “We didn’t have any expectations and I’m not even sure how many people at Asics knew about it,” Kiko explains over email. “I think most thought it was not a real long-term collaboration.” After teasing the third instalment on his spring/summer 19 catwalk back in June, expectations for and knowledge around this creative coming together has shifted. “Selling out is amazing and I’m pleased to see people wearing the shoes in their own way.”
So, how do you build on something so popular? “The Burz 2 is more about colour and offers a material update,” Kiko says. “Instead of the transparent PU layer, we used leather — a tone on tone and contrast.” The colour palette of seafoam, forest and terracotta takes direct cues from traditional pottery, is reminiscent of Kostadinov’s place of birth and mirrors his autumn/winter 18 ready-to-wear collection. For the sneakerheads among you, the silhouette is built on combined elements of the GEL-VENTURE 6 upper and NIMBUS 20 incorporating features of FlyteFoamTM and GELTM technology, while Guidance LineTM and I.G.STM (Impact Guidance System) provide a lightweight and cushioned shock absorption feel. For everyone else, it’s basically a next level running sneaker (and certainly no “dad shoe”).
Speaking to Highsnobiety last month, the designer confessed to not even knowing what the term meant: “I don’t even know what ‘dad shoe’ means. It’s like the New Balance, like Steve Jobs no? I think that’s more of an American thing. It’s strange. My dad doesn’t wear those kind of shoes.” This is a collaboration for almost everyone. If only our dad left his battered old bargain Barratts behind and was hype enough to wear Kiko x Asics.
As a designer with a series of successful collaborations under his utility belt — releasing hype products with everyone from Camper to Stüssy (when he was still a CSM-student) — Kiko picks his partners well. So what’s the secret to this one? “Asics are the bigger player in this collaboration; they provide a product that no one else can,” he explains. “I’m here to respect their values and what they stand for. I’m lucky enough to have them as a partner, while being allowed to push ideas that I feel are relevant and work with the seasonal collection.”
And as for the future? “We have some exciting developments in the company starting September, so I’m really focusing on this.” Could a new a collaboration be in the works? Watch this space.
The global launch of the GEL-BURZ 2 is on 10 August 2018.