Beautiful and Damned
This one’s all about bringing beauty and anarchy together in big gestures: painterly aspects that look like they were swished across the face in one stroke, with a paintbrush, but were actually intricately drawn. Check out the petrol black lips at GILES, the spray-paint at Vivienne Westwood and most obviously, the St George’s cross at Gareth Pugh. “A tough, ball-breaking, unstoppable woman, adorning herself with a statement, not just a make-up,” Alex Box says of the Gareth Pugh girl. “She’s Joan of Arc, with a look that’s as rough and raw as possible, but emblazoned with a St George’s cross for a Brittania vibe.”
Strength of Beauty
Every season there’s a naturalistic trend and this season combines the done and the undone. Skin is always fresh and softly accentuated with a blush or bronzer, but there are perfected elements like bushy, defined eyebrows or a flick of mascara. It’s about defining the face without changing it. Check out the “rich, young, gorgeous California girls, who are sun-kissed and glowing,” (thanks Lucia Peroni) at Moschino, the blushing beauts at DSquared2 and the pastel ladies at Holly Fulton.
Love Worn
The “smoky eye” has been used and abused over the years but instead of the grungy, worn-in “make-up from the night before” look, this season’s eyeliner is smudged but not messy, and sexy rather than grungy – your eyes can be dirty but your skin has to be clean! See it at Simone Rocha, Marques’Almeida and Ann Demeulemeester.
Red 70s
Less Hollywood glamour and more Woodstock dreamy, red lips this season are all shades other than scarlett – rust, caramel, aubergine, Bordeaux – and they look good on everyone. Check out the stain-lipped Pre-Raphaelite beauties at MSGM, the dark and sexy vampire-alikes at Houghton and the toffee-lipped doll faces at Preen.
