Named after the 80s Blitz Kid club with tartan walls, Le Kilt is the next step up. Continuing to use her grandma’s traditional techniques and materials, Sam’s creations are classic, understated and totally in demand (they’re stocked at Dover Street Market) – the perfect mix of street, smart and sexy. We catch up with Sam to talk London girls, Cruel Intentions and Victoria Beckham.
What is it about Le Kilt, the 80s Blitz Kids nightclub that inspired you?
Tartans played a part in almost every subculture. I just happen to be a big fan of the 80s Blitz Kids. I’m very much a mix between a tomboy and girly glitter type of girl. I love them both. Punk shifted a little to glam, which was amazing.
How are you going to develop a brand based only around one item of clothing?
I have always dressed in a sort of uniform; I stick to the same things. You could say the kilt is the heart of my uniform. I want to build on that with other classic wardrobe staples. But lets see.
How would you describe your aesthetic in five words?
Chic, classic, youthful, timeless, understated.
How is what you’re doing different to what your grandma did?
My grandma made very traditional kilts in a small studio on the Royal Mile, mostly for men or woman of an older generation. Le Kilt is feminine and youthful. When I was growing up, my grandma showed me that kilts could and should be worn by all ages in a variety of lengths, fabrics and colours. She would make shorter more chic skirts, trousers and bonnets in her spare time for both my mum and me. Some of the pieces my mum wore then, I now keep in my wardrobe today.
What are you keeping the same?
Craftsmanship and quality.
How do you think the girl who is your customer, differs from the girl who would have been your grandma’s customer?
My grandma never got to know her customer in the same way I can, she worked for a man called John Morrison making an amazing product but rarely saw them after they left Edinburgh. I see the perfect Le Kilt girl around London everyday, she’s both independent and chic. Hopefully my grandma and me are going see more of her soon.
What do you think are the main differences between people’s views on femininity today compared to those of your grandma’s generation?
I guess today femininity is in the eye of the beholder and it is difficult to pin point exactly what it is. That’s the great thing about being female today there is more than one box and we can choose and make our own.
What films feature the best kilts?
The Craft, Cruel Intentions, Clueless and all the teenage classics.
What did your first kilt look like?
My first kilt wasn’t quite a traditional kilt to begin with. It was a Wallis red tartan dress I got from my grandma when I was 4. With a white cotton underskirt and a matching tartan bonnet. I wore it with black double buckle patent shoes for a well organized a family photo. (The photo still exists.)
If you could design a kilt for anyone in the world, who would you choose and what would it look like?
Victoria Beckham. She’s brilliant – the ultimate spice girl! Definitely black, made in soft wool, knee length with a pleated back, sharp front apron and no front fringing. Finished with a matt gold kilt pin and side buckles with black patent leather straps.
What’s the best thing about being young and female in 2014?
Girl power.
lekilt.co.uk doverstreetmarket.com
Credits
Text Felicity Kinsella
Lookbook spring/summer 15 Photography Jonathan V Baron
Styling Louby McLoughlin
Autumn/winter 14 is now in store at Dover Street Market.