Named after a plaid clad night-club in the 80s, but based on the old world heritage of her Scottish granny, Le Kilt is the magical brainchild of hot young designer Sam McCoach. For her first presentation at LFW, Sam transported us back to the post-punk heyday of fanzine She Said Boom, showcased against the lavish setting of Soho’s l’Escargot. Think graphic tees, cashmere turtlenecks in felt grey and violet blue, simple sweatshirts with scrawlings from painter Robert Gibson, cute berets and, of course, varied incarnations of her iconic kilt in colors spanning Wallace Red, Mod Scot monochrome, and MacLeod yellow. We caught up with the bright young thing to talk girl gangs, fanzines, and her subcultural Scottish roots.
When did you first encounter She Said Boom?
I came across the graphic She Said Boom when I was looking through old post punk fanzines and band posters around two years ago. It jumped out at me and stuck. I reference old fanzines a lot and knew one day I was going to use it for something and then Le Kilt happened.
How did flicking through its post-punk pages inspire you?
Subculture inspires me. It always has. I’m forever looking at old cut outs and photos. It’s amazing to see how groups of individuals come together and become so dedicated to one particular movement. I can be a control freak. But I like what I like. I’ve always been the same.
What continuously draws you to the post-punk scene?
What inspires me most about the post punk scene is that it’s a total mix of being a bit of a tough tomboy/strong independent girl clashed with your total glam girly fix. A bit of a reflection of what it is I’m in to. I’ll go six days of the week in different variations of black/grey turtle neck sweaters, teamed with the same George Cox monkey boot in black or ox blood, very simple. Day seven comes and there is a full on girly turn around with pink sneakers and sparkle eyeshadow. She Said Boom is about girls with attitude who are not afraid to say what’s on their mind.
I stumbled across a great interview with GB Jones where she said: “Essentially, She Said Boom are 3 simple words that, for us, mean being responsible for your own pocket-sized revolution.” What’s the manifesto for your pocket-sized revolution?
Creating a new uniform for the girl that works hard, believes in herself and what it is she wants, and goes out and grabs it.
By introducing cashmere alongside simple graphic tees and sweatshirts, the Le Kilt wardrobe is forming with each passing season, at your own pace – which I love. How interested/conscious/pressured are you of creating a full collection (in the sense of 20+ full looks)?
At the minute Le Kilt is a bit of my own subcultural wardrobe for sure. I love brands, not particularly fast moving fashion. I think that there could be loads of different avenues in which le Kilt could develop. As long as I stick to the original roots, made in Scotland and perfecting classics, I love the idea of growing the collections. Margaret Howell has always been a big influence, forever beautiful and timeless.
Alongside the likes of Shrimps, Molly Goddard and co, your focus on perfecting a smaller line of items is so refreshing. Do you feel part of a movement or are you happy concentrating on your own world?
I definitely feel like there is a bit of girl movement going on. Which is amazing. I’m not sure we are all part of the same gang but it’s super exciting to see how girls like Molly and Hannah are taking hold of what it is they do best.
What advice would you give a fashion student contemplating doing the same?
I’d say listen to others, learn as much as you can and know what you want to do before you do it.
Finally, what’s next?
Looking back into my subcultural Scottish roots. Seeing more of Scotland and its craftsmanship. Drinking coffee with my Gran and listening to the most amazing group of girls I have around me.
Catch up with the rest of our autumn/winter 15 coverage here.
Credits
Text Steve Salter and Tish Weinstock
Photography Cecillie Harris