For two days during this season’s Paris Fashion Week, 20 of the most exciting talents in the field descended on the French capital for their shot at the LVMH Prize — one of fashion’s most prestigious and financially lucrative awards. Now, the panel of the industry’s foremost professionals, including Gigi Hadid, Edward Enninful and i-D’s Ibrahim Kamara, has announced their decision following the first round, an initial shortlist of 20 cut down to a final eight.
In keeping with the prize’s tradition, it’s another good year for London talent (at a total of three, more winners of the prize have been based there than anywhere else since its inauguration in 2014). This year sees Ahluwalia, Casablanca, Chopova Lowena, Nicholas Daley and Supriya Lele all representing the city, proving its ability to continue to produce agenda-setting talent despite the increasing climate of uncertainty its designers face.
Those with well-established followings make an appearance, too. Tokyo’s Tomo Koizumi — who burst onto the scene during the AW19 fashion week in New York with his viral polychrome tulle gowns — makes an appearance on the list. Peter Do, the New York-based Philo-era Céline alumnus with a rapidly building cult following for his meticulous leatherwork, will also be contending.
In a furthering of LVMH’s commitment to including designers beyond the industry’s traditional centres is attested to by the presence of Cape Town-based Sindiso Khumalo, known for her innovative work that marries traditionally South African prints and textiles with placeless modern silhouettes.
Though the home bases of this year’s finalists are, on the whole, decidedly less global than last years, it should be noted that the heritages and histories approached across their practices makes for one of the most nuanced years for the prize yet, in terms of diversity. Whichever way you look at it, it’s bound to be a tough competition.