This story is taken from Brothers’ Keeper, a special edition of i-D by Slawn and Gabriel Moses. Buy your copy here.
Martine Rose’s spring/summer 25 collection, modelled here by Akeem Williams and Slawn, was the first time that the designer showed at Milan Fashion Week — but, as ever, the clothes were British to their bones. Rose contrasted the rough-and-tumble sexiness that’s at the core of her label with the kinds of details you’d expect to see in Milan: sharp tailoring was shrunken, practically moulded to models’ bodies, like her iconic skintight footy tops.
Those tops were reinterpreted with cutouts and lace-up midsections, practical gear deftly turned into pseudo-nightlife looks befitting the rave flyers strewn around the runway. Rose was inspired by the beauty that can come out of “disturbance, humour and sex”, evident in bulky leather trousers and endearingly nerdy polos and textural, lacy tank tops; although Rose was showing outside her hometown for the first time, the raffish practicality of the rave fits and workwear that define London were on full display. This collection was also a testament to all Rose has achieved — both for herself and for British fashion more broadly — in the 17 years that she’s been running her eponymous label, a period that’s seen her go from homegrown talent to genuine cultural force.
Credits
Photography: Gabriel Moses
Artwork: Slawn
i-D Global Creative Direction: Jamie Reid
Fashion: Gerry O’Kane
Hair (Slawn): Amidat Giwa at Bryant Artists
Hair (Akeem): Kim Rance at Management Artists
Make-up: Mata Mariélle at The Wall Group
Nail Technician: Edyta Betka using OPI
Set Design: Julia Dias
Movement Director: Manu Loca
Photography Assistance: Darren Karl-Smith and Jack Savage
Digital Technician: Ben Quinton
Styling Assistance: Anna Sweasey
Tailor: Della George
Hair Assistance (Slawn): Avrelle Delisser, Kreszend Sackey and Funmi Oriola
Hair Assistance (Akeem): Jade Hartley and Sara Asunramu
Set Design Assistance: Sam Edyn, Isaac Ashley, Matthew Payne, Ellen Forbes Scenic and Ferg Lockyear
Production: Liberty Dye And Victoria Mancisidor at Concrete Rep Ltd, Thea Charlesworth at theArcade Production
Production Manager: Jeremy Rwakasiisi
Production Assistance: Kate Roswell
Retouching: The Hand Of God
Casting Director Isabel Bush at Concrete Rep Ltd
Special Thanks: Grace Rotimi and Cassia Agyeman
Models: Akeem Williams and Slawn
