In the mid 1980s, Michiko Koshino’s London store was the place to be for those in the know. Just off Oxford Street, down Dering Street, opposite Anthony D’Offay’s gallery, it felt, in the words of very good person in the know Pam Hogg, “like no-one else would know it was there, it was so hidden away, which was part of the allure. Her shows were crazy, you were dancing in your seats.”
Born into a family of kimono makers in Osaka, Michiko Koshino settled in Britain in the early 80’s where, despite knowing all of zero English, she quickly established herself as one of the new wave of Japanese designers making an impact on the London club scene. Known for her innovative and pioneering design – including her much-copied inflatable cat jacket (apparently a hot ticket into any 80s club) and bomber jackets with several pockets (for those in which you weren’t allowed to take a bag) – this year marks not only her thirtieth in the industry, but also the launch her latest creation, Michiko Sushino: a traditional Japanese dining space and coffee bar in Queenspark, London.
“A lot has happened through the years and challenged me both personally and professionally,” she tells i-D, ahead of the restaurant’s launch. “My adventure in London actually started 40 years ago and Michiko London, which turns 30 this year, will always be incredibly special to me. Whilst celebrating this milestone, we’re pressing on with the upcoming collections which I’m excited to share with a whole new generation of creatives, as well as those who are aware of my full body of work.”
Michiko Sushino opens tonight (12 October) with a party featuring Jonjo Jury and i-D’s Princess Julia. Can’t make it down? Enjoy our dive into the cult designer’s archive below.
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Text Matthew Whitehouse