It was, in his own words, “a love letter to L.A.” Jeremy Scott has, of course, lived in the mecca since 2001 and, away from the rigidity of other fashion cities, his work embodies all of the plastic fantastic sensibility of the place: from the golden arches of his first Moschino show in 2014 to the “Dolly on Molly” inspired collection for his own brand earlier this year. For this — a combined men’s and women’s resort show — however, Scott did away with the shiny surface elements of the city and tapped into its rich countercultural heritage, drawing particular influence from the flower power infused period at the end of the late 1960s and filtering it through his own unique lens.
With Moschino taking the great leap Westward to the inaugural MADE LA event, it was a collection packed with Californian archetypes: the bell bottomed, Laurel Canyon hippie and “California Dreamin” of The Mamas & The Papas to the tie-dyed surfer bum and black-clad Viper Room goth (newly updated with lace umbrella hats). And being L.A., Scott was able to deliver the sense of spectacle increasingly required by the industry today: an inflatable floral set, complete with Caitlyn Jenner and Katy Perry on the front row and a blockbuster, Victoria’s Secret-level cast opened by Miranda Kerr and closed by longtime friend and muse, Devon Aoki (not to mention the runway debut of Presley Gerber, genetically-blessed son of Cindy Crawford). Speaking ahead of the show, a fittingly floral Scott told us that what he loves about Los Angeles is that there’s “room for people to be individuals.” In a similar way, the show felt like a nod to the increasing acceptance of a authentic fashion ecosystem within the city. Welcome to the Californication of fashion, the good vibrations start here.
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Text Matthew Whitehouse