Nasir Mazhar’s spring/summer 17 show, on the second day of LC:M, was bookended by two defining tracksuit looks. Opening the show in bright red and black color block waves, the first look resembled the protective markings of a rainforest creature designed to deter predators. The closing look, the same pattern, but in a bold, burnt, gold, was rather more opulent. Those tracksuits told the story of the London designer’s thinking this season; that is to say, it was a balancing act between protective and delicate, luxe and street ready.
This theme was shown best in a series of lace pieces the designer sent down the runway, appearing first on tank tops, shorts and jogging bottoms, before reaching a thrilling climax with one full on lace tracksuit, and a shorts and waistcoat combo. It was the highlight of the show, turning the masculine associations of the tracksuit into something delicate, soft, and tantalizing.
Nasir has always resisted the simplicity of the streetwear label, reaching instead for more complex territory. In recent seasons Nasir has started to grow beyond his trademarks, refining his vision and expanding his world, whilst never losing sight of the originality and singularity of his approach that first defined him. When it works best, it creates instant iconic items — which is why Nasir has such a loyal band of followers who make each show feel like such an event.
That lace tracksuit was this season’s stand out, but beyond lace, the collection was marked by dyed lime green faux fur details clashing up against bright reds and electric blues, and the fisherman style bucket hats that adorned the models. There was something militaristic about the sleeveless jackets in khaki. In fact, the whole collection was more earthy than futuristic; even the reflective silver bottoms felt grounded rather than space-age. But the ultimate drama was that between the masculine hardness and feminine softness that ran through the collection, and gave Nasir his narrative this season.
Credits
Text Felix Petty
Photography Piczo