Melbourne’s RMIT fashion course has long been considered one of Australia’s best breeding grounds for new talent and the work emerging from the new crop of graduates continues to solidify this reputation. This November, final year students are planning to show their designs in a self-driven, independent runway, allowing them the freedom to be creatively unencumbered and without commercial constraints. We’re excited to see how this will manifest and in the lead up, we’re speaking to a selection of the talents making us excited about the future of fashion.
First up is Emma Bovill, a designer pushing the boundaries and making the odd and unconventional surprisingly enticing with her debut collection ‘Bathroom Fun’. From incorporating hair into her garments, and showing at MSFW, we chat about making the taboo beautiful and what’s next on the cards for the conceptual creative.
Can you explain your collection ‘Bathroom Fun’.
Everyone has their qualms about a not-so-hygienic bathroom and I wanted to apply a sense of childlike naivety to the scene, to play with the unsettling scenes of taboo we find-like hair in the sink, slimy soap and flaky skin. I wanted to re-invent them into being beautiful and decorative elements.
What interests you about making something taboo into something beautiful?
I think it’s healthy to question taboos and ideals, and to challenge why we perceive something a certain way. Especially something as personal as hair and skin, they’re intrinsically part of us yet when they’re detached they become revolting.
Your collections incorporate some left of field fabrications, why did you think it was important to make your collection so tactile?
I’m a tactile learner; that could be part of it. My earlier stages of design development relied heavily on material explorations, and I realised textural fabrications have been the focus of all of my previous projects. I use a lot of subtle textures and embellishments to provide a little more intrigue. I’m also interested in movement and how the weight of embellishments and textures affect the body.
How was it showing at MSFW?
It was a whirlwind- months of sleep deprivation. It was a very proud moment though, especially working with such a hugely qualified and entertaining team.
Did you have to compromise anything, or tone down your collection at all for the runway show?
It was almost the opposite for me actually. Inadvertently I’d eliminate details of my designs to make them more wearable, and then I’d add more and continue to build the collection up until the very last possible moments.
Why did you choose such a conceptual topic of context for your collection?
I think I challenge myself conceptually because of my design education with RMIT, it’s what we do best. For a year long project, I figured I need something that has a bit of depth and that interests me personally. We’re researching continuously through the year, so to remain engaged and motivated is pretty important.
Do you think it’s important to make a statement with your debut grad collection, something weird and wonderful-or is that just your design aesthetic?
Yes, I think as students we’re at liberty to be odd and unconventional, because we’re not really in the fashion market. Also, I do love colour and texture so it was inevitable that I’d produce something that was a bit brighter than the Melbourne palette.
Where do you think grad collections stand in the Australian fashion environment?
I think the grad collection runways are always the most exciting. They always get lots of media attention and exposure so we have the potential to be seen internationally. Even after years of study and soul searching, we’re still trying to find our design aesthetic but there are always motivational success stories of students that have wowed their way into business.
What’s next for you? Will you be refining any of the collection into more ready-to-wear pieces?
I’m currently working on more accessories and some ready-to-wear pieces for the collection, including some swimwear / lingerie. We have an end of year runway in November so with that looming, I think we’re all equally sad and happy to be graduates and excited/nervous for what that involves.
See more of Emma’s work here.
Credits
Text Jamie-Maree
Photography Sofia Farnesi
Hair and Makeup Taylah Davidson
Location Gemma Portelli
Models: Carmen Li and Aurelie Gnany