How often do you think of the Roman Empire? No, really. Because, chances are, it’s a fair few times per day, especially if you’re a white man living in the Global North – or, as it goes, a fashion fan. As TikTokers the world over have shown in low-fi vox pops, those hulking amphitheatres, basilicas and grape-grazing swingers live rent-free in the Western mind. Of course, where there’s a trend on social media, there’s usually a counterpart on the runways. And with most creative directors today being white European and American dudes, we were bound to catch some sartorial Freudian slips evidencing an eternal obsession with Rome’s heyday. That said, this season the aesthetic went beyond the work of the aforementioned suspects, and we’re talking more than nods to laurel wreaths and a few gladiator sandals.
Here, we showcase the spectres of Caesar and Marcus Aurelius, as seen across Londinium, Mediolanum and Lutetia… sorry: London, Milan and Paris.
Alexander McQueen
Apparently, there were no women soldiers in the Roman army. Sarah Burton’s breast-plated warriors beg to differ.
Mains
If cupid were alive today, he’d be rocking pearled overcoats.
Jawara Alleyne
We didn’t have Jawara down as an ancient armour enthusiast, but this works. Opulence, you own everything.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Winged accessories and lamé togas are a must for any self-respecting Roman deity. Tasselled loafers optional.
Victoria Beckham
If any of the girls living circa 27 BC–AD 330 wanted to blag their way into a Roman Republic meeting, this would have done the trick.
Loewe
Intricate swaddling and a boned bra? Venus could never.
Rabanne
Forget the dusty silver armour stored in the British Museum. Roman drip starts with chainmail slips and silver gladiator sandals.
Stefan Cooke
These days, togas aren’t the sole reserve of tasteless stag dos. They’re also an ingenious way to elevate men’s shirting.
Blumarine
POV: it’s the Met Gala in 31 BC.