Romans, Persians, Ottomans, Byzantines, Babylonians, Umayyads, Abbasids, and the French all passed through Syria, leaving behind ruins, traditions, stories, and scars. Its capital, Damascus, is the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth. Maaloula is the last city that still speaks Aramaic, the language of Jesus. Cain killed Abel here. The Prophet Muhammad ﷺ is said to have stopped in his tracks on the way to Damascus, refusing to continue. “A man should only enter paradise once in life,” he said.
From the coast to the desert, from the mountains to the valleys, Syria has witnessed the rise and fall of empires for over ten thousand years. Most recently, Syrians have lived through fourteen years of war, sanctions, and the fall of the Assad regime. But as Mark Twain said, “Damascus has seen all that has ever occurred on earth, and still she lives.” Ancient and modern, beautiful and brutal, resilient and definitely complicated. Welcome to Syria… you wouldn’t last a minute.
Esmail, 14
Where are you from? The outskirts of Aleppo. What do you like to eat? Spenti in Mashrou Dummar – their shawarma is the best. Favorite thing about Syria? The people. Favorite song? Anything by Kamel Yosef.
Lava Ahmad, 29
What do you do? I’m a freelance photographer. Where are you from? Tartous. What are you wearing? I used to take a lot of time to pick my outfit, but during the last few years during the war, I wore white and black so no one would notice me. It was always dark, no electricity, people were avoiding looking at each other. I was trying to blend in. In the last 14 years I forgot how to deal with colors, I’m really sad about it. Where’s good to dance? Floyd’s in Damascus. It’s a very cozy bar, lots of Syrians enjoying themselves. What do people get wrong about Syria? They think we don’t know anything about fashion, or art. They’re always surprised when we talk about music, or fashion, I can see it in their eyes. Favorite place in Syria? Aleppo. It is the most wonderful city I have ever seen.What do you love about Syria? It has everything. All kinds of people and culture.
Judy Al Hamad, 22
Where are you from? A lovely place called Al Muhajireen, I live on Qasioun Mountain, overlooking Damascus. What do you do? I’m an AI engineer and Founder of Elat, an initiative that focuses on reviving astronomy in Syria. I’m also trying to explore art through sculpture and other mediums. What do you love about Syria? Honestly, loving Syria is never an easy thing. It is a harsh, cruel, complicated, yet loving, simple place. Maybe, that’s what I love about her; the many things and feelings that you can experience through this country. And its history that’s simply rooted in every corner you walk. Where’s good to eat? La Capital, a lovely and cozy place in Bab Sharqi. Where’s good to dance? At our sculpting institution, we do halabi dances, slow dancing and so many other things. This year I want to… Pursue a Masters in Space Science. Song you have on repeat? “Tourah” by Fadia Tanab. What do people get wrong about Syria? I always hate how people don’t respect what people inside of Syria have been going through, and still are. Only in Syria… Can you eat the yummiest Shawarma and Muhammara with Kashkaval Cheese.
Abu Malaz Mohamed Amran
Where are you from? I’m from Masyaf.What do you do? I’m retired; I used to work in admissions at Damascus University. Do you wear a suit everyday? Of course. What about summer? I still wear the trousers and shirt without the jacket. Favourite thing about Syria? I love everything about Syria. I love all of Syria, but especially Damascus. Where’s best to eat? It’s Damascus. You can’t really go wrong.
Mariam Fawal, 25
Where are you from? Damascus. What do you do? I’m a video editor and a sketchbook maker. Tell me about your outfit. I had a colorful outfit planned, but a relative passed away and I have a funeral today so all black it is. What do you love about Syria? Everything carries layers. I think it’s a love-hate relationship. The things I love about it make me despise it too. It’s a slow country in comparison to others when it comes to improvement. But I love how simple life is here. Where’s good to dance? Everywhere if you’re brave enough. I prefer my room. Where’s good to eat? Good places exist everywhere, but there’s one place for Saj in Old Damascus that is so good. It’s a tiny place without a name, but it’s always crowded and loved, winter, summer, day, and night. What do people get wrong about Syria? Some come here wearing niqab and act surprised that it’s not necessary. Understanding how diverse this country is is how you get it right. There are no abstract facts or opinions here. It’s always a mix of very oddly specific conditions and bad (sometimes good) luck.
Aziz
Rana, 22
Where are you from? I’m from Homs. Is the food better in Damascus or Homs? Homs! What’s your favorite? I like kibbeh and molokhiya. Where’s best to eat in Damascus? Mona Lisa. Tell me about your outfit. I dress based on what I find comfortable, if I like the colors and if they suit me, if the outfit suits my body shape, and if I feel confident when I wear this. Song you have on repeat? Anything by Rabih Baroud.
Adnan Zaki, 21
What do you do? I’m a triathlete. I’m also a coach for triathletes and swimmers. What’s it like being an athlete in Syria? It’s hard. If you’re a successful athlete here, you’re different from the athletes from other places. We have nothing here, but we can still compete with them. What do you do for fun? I go biking with my friends. We go all around Damascus, most often Bab Touma, Jahiz Park. What do people get wrong about Syria? We are living. We are kind. What is your goal in athletics? I’d like to be an Asian champion, and to qualify for LA 2028. I know I can, I just need some support. I went to a race in Kyrgyzstan, but I needed a wetsuit for the swimming portion and didn’t have one. I was saving all my money just to travel there. What should people know about athletes in Syria? There are good athletes here, they just don’t have resources. They have to work, then come here to train after. It’s not the lifestyle of a pro athlete.
Ammo
Where are you from? I’m Damascene. I live on the outskirts of Damascus, with my wife and daughter. Where’s good to eat? I don’t know the name of the place, but the best shawarma is in Abu Roumaneh. Is that your favorite food? Yes, shawarma is my favorite. What are you wearing? I’m staying warm.
Zakarayya, 18
Where are you from? Idlib. Is the food better in Idlib or Damascus? Idlib! It’s much tastier. What’s the best? Honestly, all of it is good, but my favorite food is shawarma. Favorite thing about Syria? Skate Syria. I know everyone there; my friends are there.
Elena Ahmed, 20
Where do you live? Jaramana. What do you do? I’m in my first year of university, studyingmedicine, and I train at the hospital. Tell me about your outfit. I saw my mom’s old pictures and I was in love with her old outfits. She was wearing an outfit like this in 1998 at a party. I wanted to do the same. Where’s best to eat in Damascus? RedRose in Mashrou Dummar. Order anything, everything from there is good. The best thing there is the mushroom soup. What do people get wrong about Syria? A lot. But you know, we just finished a war. If you don’t like it, don’t come.