From mountain excursions to urban expeditions, Moncler is synonymous with travel, discovery and adventure. Whether it’s conquering the K2 or San Babila — the Milanese square where Paninari, the brand obsessed teens of the 80s, used to rule while wearing the iconic Moncler down jackets — the brand guides explorers, sportsmen, outdoor lovers and the simply curious to discover new spaces. The Moncler FW 21 Collection is a continuation of this adrenaline-pumping attitude, an expression of a need for freedom that emerges from the textures, geometries and volumes of the collection.
Functionality, practicality and style are the keywords of these garments, and it is exactly this vibe that inspired the Italian photographer Lucia Buricelli. Working with the team at i-D, the artist has interpreted the garments through an anthropological and curious, energetic and dynamic prism which puts the essence of the collection at the centre. In between shots, we talked with her about the concept of discovery and inspiration, the value of research and the unexpected charm of everyday life.
Hi Lucia! The last time we met you, you told us about how it was like growing up in Venice, studying in New York and building a career in Milan. Now we wonder: what was it like not being able to travel for so long?
The pandemic has led me to re-evaluate and appreciate a daily life from which I had been removed for years. In particular, I was able to see Venice with new eyes, a city that for some aspects is a bit repetitive but that isolation made me rediscover [it] from different points of view. I realised how little I actually knew it.
What kind of gaze do you have on your subjects? And what’s your role as a photographer?
The look I have on my subjects is always one of great curiosity. Among my references, the main ones are Vivian Maier and Martin Parr, I think their works are an important testimony and social documentation of everyday life, an archive of images essential to understand the past. I like the idea of building an archive of research materials and memories of current times through my photos.
Guide us through your creative process. Where do you find inspiration? Do you follow a precise methodology when taking pictures?
I find inspiration everywhere, spontaneously and unexpectedly: books, other creatives, conversations. But mostly all from the outside world and the reality that surrounds me, from lengthy walks, unexpected moments, from everyday banalities. From a technical point of view I am much more methodical, I use the same equipment every time, the flash is almost always mounted above the camera. I prefer to focus on what I photograph, rather than waste time on technical details.
Moncler Collection FW 21 focuses on the idea of travel and discovery, both literal and figurative. If your photography could only take us to one place, where would it be?
Definitely not in a physical place, but rather in many places, imaginary or real, depending on travel companions. I like the idea that anyone looking at my photo scan develop its own interpretation and reconnect a memory or a personal place to it
The subjects of your shots are real characters, human archetypes that transport you on a journey through the most remote corners of humanity in all its facets and paradoxes. What is it that makes you go: “I have to shoot that person.”?
It is almost an unstoppable impulse. I can’t really explain the exact reason. It’s a mix of things: the walk, the hairstyle, the hair colour, the accessories, the way they speak or look around.In your images there are also many objects and animals.
If your photograph could be only one object, what would it be? And which animal?
An object, a crab-shaped salt shaker. An animal, a pigeon.
The idea of adventure, unexplored spaces and fortuitous encounters are key elements of the FW 21 Moncler Collection and you too, with your camera, embark on expeditions around the world. Can you tell us about an adventure that stuck with you and that happened thanks to a click?
An adventure that comes to mind dates back to this year’s European Championship final. That evening I was in Milan and I decided to go and photograph the people who were watching the game to capture the chaos of the event. You could understand the progress of the match simply by listening to the screams of people in every corner of the city. There were flags hung everywhere, crowded bars, people jumping on trams, people jumping in the Naviglio, others climbed on the lampposts or speeded around on their mopeds. I was intrigued by the social aspect of this event, especially during a global pandemic.
Three trips you’ve always dreamed of taking, but haven’t done yet?
A journey on the Trans-Siberian railway, carnival in Rio de Janeiro and Aoshima, the cat island located in Japan.
Each season, Moncler explores the identity of the brand, focusing more and more on their own values and their own ethical, stylistic and aesthetic ideas. Do you recognise yourself in this process of evolution and self-determination?
Yes, I recognise myself very much in this process. It has been about ten years since I started taking pictures and I think I have changed a lot from the beginning, both from a stylistic and personal point of view. After the abrupt transition from black and white to colour, I’m still trying to develop a coherent aesthetic, with particular attention to palettes and diptychs —I love how two photos, even if taken at different times, can enrich each other.
I think our identity is constantly evolving, maybe over time we develop a greater self-awareness. I certainly feel I still have many unknowns.When I was in New York, I looked for the eccentric and the bizarre. In the last year, however, I have started to observe the simplicity of what surrounds me, and I think we can be amazed and amaze everywhere we are.
What comes to your mind when you think of Moncler? And what feelings has the Moncler Collection FW 21 left you?
The collection left me with feelings of joy and surprise, both visually and tactile.The first time I saw the jackets I was struck by the variety of models and colours, adaptable to a varied audience with different tastes. At the same time, each piece expresses the essence of Moncler, and I think the collection has a strong identity, immediately attributable to the brand.
What does the future hold for you?
I am working on a project that explores the variety of urban fauna, with a special attention given to how the actions and behaviours of the human being affect the lives of animals. I started this project a couple of years ago in New York, while I was walking in Central Park, I saw a squirrel climbing somebody’s leg who was eating peanuts. So I started the project, which I decided to carry on also in Italy, where I found friendly pigeons in Venice and hungry otters in the docks of Milan. I would like to be able to travel and develop the project in the most populated cities around the world.
Credits
Text Carolina Davalli
Editor Benedetta Pini
Photography Lucia Buricelli
Creative Direction Gloria Maria Cappelletti
Executive Producer Rosario Rex Di Salvo
Styling Giorgia Imbrenda
Groomer Gaia Dellaquila
Art Direction: Gloria Bertuzzi
Production Assistance Guglielmo Del Signore and Luca Perrone
Styling Assistance Marco M Latorre and Francesco Mautone
Production Rex Industries
Senior Project Manager Valentina Curti
Account Manager Benedetta Borioni