Thomas Tait describes his feminine vision for spring/summer 16 as “all elbows and knees,” but if you’re expecting a gawky nerd, think again. The refined collection of silky shirts and dresses, patent patched and portholed denim and perfectly cut leather presents a plethora of Tait staples, but his ideas are consolidated and more covetable than ever.
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The devil really is in the detail, as silk garments are punctuated by small embroidered circles with motifs that could be borrowed from the ancient Aztecs or a futuristic circuit board, and denim has patent leather-edged cut outs with metal rings buckled at four points like a cross hair. “There was a kind of bondage-y element,” Tait told us backstage, “but I’m not really into bondage,” he admits. “I don’t actually know anything about it, but I really enjoy sort of naively peeking at it”.
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Tait says he has “a general interest in making things where you can’t necessarily tell what it is from a certain physical distance.” “You know when you get really close to someone you don’t know to look at something, and you realize you’re a bit too close?” he asks, explaining that the designs aim to engineer an “awkward closeness,” an effect he recreated for the show: “I wanted the runway to be a little bit narrow, to bring people together, whether they like it or not!” he joked.
Read more i-D fashion month coverage here.
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Credits
Text Charlotte Gush
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans