He may have said “Call me Tom” to the interviewer in his recent ES Magazine cover feature, but at the brand’s plush Victoria HQ, we were told that “Mr Ford” couldn’t be here to run us through the spring/summer 16 looks. Which is a shame, because we’d have loved to have heard the former Studio 54 boy talk us through the season’s looks (and associated stories), inspired as they were by Andy Warhol’s Factory era.
Ford’s first offering since scooping the prestigious CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award featured sharp tailoring that was apparently reflective of the “monied clientele [of Studio 54] of the time that were trying to buy into this subculture.” As well as more muted three pieces (replete with pocket chain for the spanking new Apple Watch) there were some loud tuxedo jackets that took their cues from pop art and lava lamps.
The emphasis at the presentation was back on the tailoring this season (whereas it fell on the casual wear last time round), but there were also new leather backpacks, ever-strong denim (apparently a big seller for the brand), ranch-vibes shirts and biker jackets. The knitwear was divine and diverse, coming in an array of different collars (half zip to crew neck), colors (dusky pink to bold tomato) and fabrics (lambswool to cashmere).
Walking round, you can’t help but marvel at the independent luxury empire Tom Ford has managed to create for himself in London. It’s a singular vision that effectively sees him existing in his own orbit here at LC:M.
