Andy Warhol’s studio, The Factory, has long been a source of cultural fascination, as have the many artists and socialites that passed through its doors. For Tommy Hilfiger, who visited the space in the 1980s, it provided an obvious framework to present his latest collection, the brand’s first on the New York Fashion Week schedule since 2019, billed as a “homecoming like no other”.
Drawing on the legacy of Andy and the revolutionary scene he helmed for decades, the brand debuted a see now, buy now AW22 collection that nodded to this fabled past as well as the possibilities of the future – from its tin-foil catwalk, resembling the inner interior of Andy’s studio, to the Roblox live stream that towered over the venue. Vast in scale (and extremely wet thanks to heavy rain in Brooklyn that evening), Tommy Factory brought the drama to fashion week.
Unexpected collaborations have come to define the fashion industry over the past few seasons and, oftentimes, the randomer the pairing, the better. Tommy Hilfiger and Richard Quinn certainly feel like an unexpected combo. Tommy, one of the most defining brands synonymous with Americana and collegiate wear, and Richard, a provocateur playing with florals and fetishwear to create subversive, sometimes disconcerting silhouettes – the end product of their designs can seem, at a glance, totally different. Still, on the NYFW catwalk last night, the two designers presented a limited edition capsule collection, complete with a signature monogram, that found commonality in their distinct visions. And it all began with the Queen and Kylie Minogue.
“Kylie was performing, she and her dancers were wearing Richard’s clothes, and everyone sitting with me was just blown away,” Tommy says backstage a couple of hours before the show kicks off. “I also know the Queen was sitting front row at his fashion show in London, so I thought okay, something special is going on here. Fortunately one of my team members and one of his team members knew each other, so we were able to come together.”
Richard, sitting next to Tommy, adds: “We’ve taken the all-American classics and put our own filter on it. So it’s like a really saturated version of varsity jackets, chinos, and stuff like that.” With names like The Punk, The Jock and The Cheerleader, the looks play with classic American college staples, while looks like The Cat Girl and The Cowboy toyed with symbols of traditional Americana.
I ask Richard how he kept the authentic Richard Quinn vision present through the clothes. “I think it’s just saturating what was already there,” he says. “These classic pieces that we’ve blown up into much bigger silhouettes, different kinds of embroideries on chinos, and just remixing it.” Like any successful collab, the pieces combined exist in both designer’s universes. Richard’s signature codes – like full-face balaclavas, pointed-toe shoes – juxtaposed and reimagined against Tommy’s classic denims and finely-woven cotton shirting. “I like the fact it gives Tommy Hilfiger a freshness,” Tommy adds, “and a real fashion point of view, that’s very creative and artistic, but at the same time, it is wearable. Referring to the fact the pieces are limited edition, he adds: “They’re going to be sold out probably by tomorrow, and our customers, our fans love that, because if it’s hard to get and it’s sold out then they want more.”
As for the big names on and off the catwalk, Tommy Factory brought campaign stars like Kate Moss, Jon Batiste and Travis Barker (who got up and played the drums during the show’s finale), as well as Kris Jenner, Kourtney Kardashian and Shawn Mendes to the umbrella-covered frow. Meanwhile, bracing the elements in the show was Kate’s daughter Lila, Julia Fox, Paloma Elsesser, Winnie Harlow, Alton Mason and many more.
