When the House of Dior exhibition opens at the National Gallery of Victoria in late August, it will not only mark the 70th anniversary of the French house but also its long relationship with Australia. Christian Dior launched his label in 1946, just one year after the end of the Second World War. Following six years of austerity measures resulting from the conflict, women were finally able to be more free in their expression and Dior was at the forefront of a revolutionary and luxurious new way of dressing.
His style took off globally and in 1947, just one year into Dior’s life, a number of outfits were transported to Australia for a Woman’s Weekly fashion parade. The pieces were also shot on the cover of the magazine as the new look and silhouette was embraced by the generation. The following year, David Jones department store flew a 50-piece collection of original Dior couture to Australia for a dedicated fashion parade, along with a number of its well-known house models to wear the designs. It was the first time a complete Dior collection had been shown outside of Paris and a huge event in the fashion industry at the time.
Inspired by this tour de force, a young Melbourne manufacturer, Douglas Cox, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to set up a license allowing him to make and sell Dior’s designs in Australia. For one year Douglas Cox sold Dior dresses from his Flinders Lane headquarters and even today they are some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.
As we wait for the exhibition to open to discover more, we sat down with a couple of Melbourne’s most experienced and long-serving fashion minds, who despite being very young in the 40s, remember Dior’s early impact on the city well. Georgina Weir, who began working in her mother’s boutique Le Louvre in the 60s and Christine Barro, who was head accessories buyer at the influential department store Georges in the 80s and now runs her beautiful eponymous Flinders Lane store, have both been at the forefront of Melbourne’s refined fashion culture for decades. While their businesses are entirely unique, both women have enriched the city’s fashion scene with their knowledge and both pride themselves on offering clients a rare, personal experience through their boutiques. We wanted to hear from these doyens about their experience and just what it is about the city’s cultural fabric that has supported its progressive style identity for over half a century.
Georgina Weir – Le Louvre
Le Louvre has been operating for almost 100 years, can you tell us how it all began?
My mother moved from Ballarat in the early 20s to open Le Louvre in a terrace house on Collins St. It was completely original for the time and one of the city’s first salons. She knew there were doctors and professionals in the area who bought nice clothes and would be good customers. Her boutique attracted all the interesting people and artists in the city who’d sit in the store with her, drink whiskey and chat.
How amazing. And when did you begin working with her?
Well it took a while. I studied painting and sculpture at RMIT and then went to Europe for five years. During that trip I learnt about ready-to-wear, something that people hadn’t really heard about in Australia at the time. During those first decades Le Louvre’s clothes were hand made to order by 30 girls around a work table. When I came back from London in the 70s, I began working in the salon and brought the idea of ready-to-wear back with me.
Do you have memories of Dior coming to Australia?
It was before my time but I remember my mother speaking about it as being such a big event. It helped establish us as a fashion destination. Christian Dior would give his designs names and very early on some were titled Melbourne, Sydney andAustralie. There was a real connection.
You’re not in the Collins St store anymore, your new store is so beautiful but it must have been a big shift.
I sold the shop in Collins St seven years ago and moved to South Yarra where we converted a huge, old cable car servicing depot into a luxury boutique. We built three floors and staircases and everything from scratch. I have an incredible team and we won’t have anyone leave the store without something they love. We’re the only multi-brand store to stock Gucci in the southern hemisphere too. They like the idea of it being available in this strange environment. We take it very seriously and can honestly say we’re unique in the world.
It feels like a real family. You also have a strong affiliation with art, does this tie back to your studies?
I think so. We support the artists we love and have, in the past, had exhibitions of Aboriginal art as well as Mark Schaller’s work and various others. I’ve curated the store with all the things I like and collect – it’s a mixture of everything I find pleasurable. I like things to be just where they fall. We still have the spirit of a salon but it has been nice to reinvent it.
Inside Christine
Christine Barro – Christine’s Accessories
Your store is tucked underground behind an intriguing red door and is full of the most beautiful accessories. When did you open Christine and what did you do prior to that?
I went from art school into retail and, on the recommendation of a very good client, I began working at Georges department store. Originally I was appointed as their jewellery buyer but I gradually came to look after all of the accessories on the ground floor. It was very exciting and a great opportunity to recognise and move with trends. I brought Fendi to Australia when I was 22 – I would travel to Rome and meet with Paolo and Carla Fendi. This was when houses were still mostly run by the original designers. I was also responsible for organising Georges’ events. We’d have installations of Richard Lowe’s work for example, an artist who’d make incredible pieces using sequins. We’d essentially turn the store into an art gallery. We were stocking all the most amazing clothes and accessories including Valentino, Kenzo, Chanel YSL, Gucci and Hermès and it was just a wonderful experience.
What happened to Georges? What did you do next?
David Jones bought Georges and closed it down. From there I moved into fashion forecasting and worked with Myer driving their events and catalogues. Eventually I was lucky enough to be approached by Stephen Bennet to work on the re-opening of Georges. So I was once again the accessories buyer and it was a great opportunity but unfortunately, retail is uncertain and that store only lasted one year. It was then that I decided I needed more control over my career and decided to open my own shop. That was in 2000.
Christine is such a rich addition to the city. What do you love about being based in Melbourne?
I think it has to do with Melbourne’s love of the refined experience: from fashion and food to art and sport, we are great consumers of all of these things. The NGV has done incredible things for art here and there’s a long, deep history in terms of our culture. I like to think Christine is a part of this. We look after our customers and hold events like salon teas for our clients. We love to give people the story behind the pieces – it’s about making the experience special.
The NGV’s The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture runs from the 27th August – 7th November, exclusive to Melbourne.
For a limited time, Qantas is offering sale fares to Melbourne*, making it easier to experience this amazing exhibition.
*Sale ends 23:59 (AEST) 3 July 2017, unless sold out prior. Selected travel dates and conditions apply. Visit qantas.com for details.
Credits
Text Briony Wright