When she’s not busy being one part of the hugely successful London-based design trio, Sibling (along with Joe Bates and Sid Bryan), Cozette McCreery loves to indulge in a bit of food porn. She’s a big fan of the Food Network’s famous US cook, Ina Garten, specifically. A friendly and rather homely sort of character, Garten quit a job working as a Nuclear Policy Analyst at the White House many years ago, to open a posh New York food store called Barefoot Contessa. She then launched a TV career with her Food Network cookery show of the same name and in tandem with this has authored a succession of best-selling recipe books.
Here, Cozette reveals the ins and outs of her penchant for Garten, her love of books about food and, somewhat paradoxically, her hatred of actually having to turn the oven on and cook.
How did you first become aware of Ina Garten?
I became obsessed with Food Network ages ago, as I already love watching Lawson, Smith, Oliver and Slater on BBC2. Anyway I can’t remember when we first ‘met’, maybe she was on before Farm Kings (Farm Kings has a very obvious reason for watching, well if you like buff blonde men it’s obvious…) but I loved her and her husband and their Friday night chicken roasting. The whole program made me smile. Ok, and sometimes laugh for the wrong-right reasons.
What is it about her that appeals to you?
She seems like a lot of fun. Standing there in her navy pyjama outfit, barefoot as the show title suggests, waving yet another stick of butter about, fake glugging from a giant bottle of spirits with the producers of Chicago, talking about France while making what looks like toast. She’s very obviously having fun with it. Portions are big, recipes are relatively easy, diets are forgotten and she loves a cocktail. To quote the lady herself: “What’s not to like?”
When do you typically watch her show? Is this a solo pursuit, or do you know other Garten fans?
Usually when I get home I want something to turn-off to. Ina is perfect; the voice, the food. I find it all weirdly comforting. Solo, normally, but after watching there is always chat about it either at dinner, over drinks, or on Facebook.
Have you ever attempted any of the recipes she demonstrates?
No, but I could do the one we all chat about where she goes to her own store, buys hummus and puts it in a bowl! We all cried laughing about that one and then remembered that Nigella did something similar with chips in pitta. God how I love these women, it’s such a piss-take!
Are you any good at cooking?
I’m a good cook but I just don’t enjoy doing it. I know I’m good as I have the Home Economics A grade to prove it, if proof is needed. I just find the act of it so boring! But I’ll do it for an exam and because I’m competitive and analytical, will do it well. Then, never again.
Ina is known for hosting dinner parties – is this something you also do?
Shudder. I grew up with parents who loved to entertain and a very large house with a huge amount of amenities – pool, tennis courts – so parties were big affairs. Every weekend there was something going on. I’ll host a door. I’ll host a club night, damn it I’ll even host one Up West on a Saturday night after a major football match, but a dinner party, no thanks. I don’t think I ever have thrown a dinner party. I’ve cooked fish fingers for my friend, Jack. I don’t think that counts, though.
Do you own any cookbooks?
I own a lot of cookbooks and my favourites are middle-eastern cookbooks. I read them cover-to-cover and still don’t cook a thing from them. Claudia Roden is great. And I have a book on cakes by Julie Duff, which gives the history of each. I like this kind of book, the history or the science of cookery. It’s why I like middle-eastern cookery books, they usually give a background to the dishes, how they may have changed over the years, how they are traditionally prepared, where and when they’d be eaten: the ritual of the entire process. It’s an easy way to find out about people and humours my love of learning. I read a lot of historical biographies because of the same reasons.
Ina has a bit of a ‘gay following’. Why might the gays like her way of doing things, do you think?
Probably because she is broad-minded, fun and doesn’t seem to give a shit – in a good way. Same reasons I like her.
So… food programmes and cookery books… hang on, I thought fashion people didn’t eat?
I think the Easyjet pilots flying Kate Moss know that this isn’t necessarily true! All the people I hang out with eat, and they are pretty much all in the business some way or another. And my magazine and designer friends have hearty appetites too. Whether we are in London, New York or Paris we all meet up socially around food. We often spend all day together and then go out and eat. It’s really wonderful and makes travelling – at least for me, personally – less of a struggle.
Are your fellow Sibling-ites Sid and Joe any good in the kitchen?
Joe cooks a mean chilli and Sid is a dab hand at a roast.
What’s your next meal going to be?
I’m working near Brick Lane and with this rubbish July weather – sod the salad, I fancy a curry.
MORE unlikely obsessions with fashion insiders.
Credits
Text James Anderson
Photography Ronald Dick