This story originally appeared in i-D’s The New Wave Issue, no. 373, Fall/Winter 2023. Order your copy here.
By most estimations, fashion is a pretty trans*-accepting – or tolerating, perhaps – cultural sector. Indeed, seeing trans* models on runways and in magazines is, in and of itself, not particularly new. Connie Girl, Tracey ‘Africa’ Norman, April Ashley, Andreja Pejić, Teddy Quinlivan, Nathan Westling, Indya Moore, Hunter Schafer, Hari Nef… they’re just a handful of openly trans* models who, over the past three decades, have played a key role in shaping the look, feel and trajectory of contemporary fashion. Still, as true as that is, peer beyond the industry’s insistence on its own progressiveness and listen to the experiences of many of the trans* people who have worked within it and you’ll discover a long history of fetishisation, tokenisation, and failures to cater to their basic needs; of trans* models being reduced to an extremely intimate facet of their identities, and treated more like dress-up dolls than as people.
Granted, these harmful tendencies often speak to the modelling industry’s more general structural flaws, but the common experiences of trans* models, eager to build around more than their choice to express their gender beyond the remit of the one they were assigned at birth, speak measures. “It’s not always about how you identify because that’s something so personal, and identity is for yourself. It’s not for anybody else,” Alex Consani – a 20-year-old model and i-D cover star who, in recent years, has experienced a meteoric rise – says. “If society looks at you as just your identity, it’ll strip you down. It won’t allow people to see you for the amazing, beautiful human you are.”
Alex is part of a rising generation of trans* models hellbent on doing exactly that: loudly and proudly advocating for people who experience the world like them, while also unapologetically showcasing that they are so much more than their pronouns. That’s something you’ll be more than conscious of if, like 1.4m others, you follow Miss Mawma (as she’s known to her loyal community of fans) on TikTok, where she’s as well known for her harebrained subway dances (Tube Girl, who?) and goofy disposition as she is for her turns on the Alexander McQueen and Versace runways.
In this series of images – shot by Mario Sorrenti and styled by i-D editor-in-chief Alastair McKimm – she’s joined by Colin Jones, Wali Deutsch, Hunter Pifer, Cate McBride, Valentine Alvarez, Joakim Gjemmestad, Sunni Summers, Sylvia Anderson, Juli Kocemba, Amara Gisele and Benzo Perryman: a group of models who are broadening the horizons of what meaningful representation in fashion looks like – for trans* people, sure, but also for anyone who hasn’t seen themself reflected in the mirror that fashion, at its best, holds up to the world.
“Everybody needs to be seen,” Hunter says, “and I think that’s what we’re lacking right now.” “I think a more inclusive industry necessitates a total reframe,” Wali echoes. “It means an industry that’s inclusive across all sorts of identities. Without that, we’re just looking at an industry that will continue to use those they find palatable enough for their own gain, to appear progressive or make watered-down statements about diversity. A more inclusive industry looks like the establishment making room for those who have been historically under-represented – and doing it not just once but making a commitment to doing it always.”
It isn’t just a matter of visibility for its own sake, though. “The value of trans visibility in this industry is insurmountable,” Colin says, highlighting the material impact that having the space to speak for oneself entails. “Platforms like this help us share our stories, and discredit claims and narratives that have been falsely taught from corrupt media outlets. I’m very grateful to have opportunities where I can use my voice, and advocate for my community. This is just the beginning of the representation that will ultimately save and protect trans lives.” With what this group is bringing to the table, there’s ample cause for hope that the changes they’re intent on making are ones that will permanently alter the industry’s infrastructures for the better.
“It’s not always about how you identify because that’s something so personal, and identity is for yourself. If society looks at you as just your identity, it’ll strip you down, and it won’t allow people to see you for who you are, which is an amazing, beautiful human.” Alex Consani
“The value of trans visibility in this industry is insurmountable. Platforms like this help us share our stories, and discredit claims/narratives that have been falsely taught from corrupt media outlets.” Colin Jones
“You know, being trans isn’t hard. Dealing with the people around us who are not so welcoming, that’s the hardest part.” Hunter Pifer
“A more inclusive industry looks like the establishment making room for those who have been historically under represented – and doing it not just once but making a commitment to doing it always.” Wali Deutsch
“I hope that pronouns become a more normalised thing.” Juli Kocemba
“If we start with the youth and equip them with ways to protect themselves, it can make an impact in the future.” Benzo Perryman
“There are certain boxes and labels that people are put into, and even as a child, I really wanted to break out of those barriers.” Valentine Alvarez
“When we talk about trans rights, we’re talking about human rights, civil rights – basic civil rights.” Amara Gisele Velasquez
Credits
Photography Mario Sorrenti
Fashion Alastair McKimm
Hair Tomo Jidai at Home Agency using Oribe
Make-up Yadim at Art Partner
Nail Technician Honey at Exposure using UN/DN Laqr
Photography Assistance Javier Villegas and Nate Martin
Digital Technician Kotaro Kawashima
Fashion Assistance Madison Matusich and Taylor Wood
Hair Assistance Christine Moore and Tomoko Kuwamura
Make-up Assistance Aimi Osada and Iona Moura
Production Katie Fash and Layla Néméjanski
On Set Production Steve Sutton
Production Assistance William Cipos and Jack Sheperd
Casting Director Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DMCASTING
Casting Assistance Alexandra Antonova and Evagria Serg for DMCASTING
Models Colin Jones and Wali Deutsch at Women, Hunter Pifer at Q Management, Cate McBride at State, Alex Consani at IMG, Valentine Alvarez and Joakim Gjemmestad at Heroes, Sunni Summers at Wallflower, Sylvia Anderson and Juli Kocemba at New York Models, Amara Gisele at Next and Benzo Perryman at Society