Schönen Freitag meine Lieben! Why are we speaking German, we hear you ask? Well, because while the men’s shows in Paris and Milan took over the internet with their stunningly crafted fit, elsewhere on the continent, Berlin Fashion Week was also in full swing. For our full breakdown of all the city’s best fashion moments outside of Berghain, read on below. In other news we have new campaigns from Miu Miu and Givenchy with some very familiar faces, and a Palestinian designer who should be on all of your radars, Zeid Hijazi. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Fashion Council Germany launches a new-look Berlin Fashion Week
After 15 years as part of the Mercedes-Benz family, Berlin Fashion Week is newly independent and the result is palpable. Sharing dates with both Paris and Milan, last week saw the German capital showcase an impressive range of talent through their new Berlin Contemporary format, with 18 emerging designers hand-selected by Fashion Council Germany. Numerous perspectives on fashion were presented across a series of shows and presentations that slanted more youthful and exciting than the city’s previous incarnations.
One of the opening shows, Sia Arnika, saw editors trek to an industrial estate on the edge of town for a rave-ready collection featuring barely-there cut-out dresses – simultaneously lace-like and hardcore – paired with towering neon wedges and various takes on the leather bomber. The Ottolinger alum, whose designs have been seen on the likes of Kylie Jenner, uses strictly deadstock and sustainable materials to craft her party pieces. Malaika Raiss’ “EUPHORIA” presentation was something of a vibe shift. Guests, surrounded by gypsophila arrangements, sipped cocktails topped with glacé cherries as models in the designer’s new bridal collection – dropping on Valentine’s Day – danced, cut cake and circulated through the wedding party. A modern take on Berlin’s roaring 20s, looks included sleek floor-length gold sequined numbers as well as understated off-white silk slips paired with oversized jackets.
Taking over Rotes Rathaus, Berlin’s imposing old city hall, the much-hyped SF1OG showcased their latest collection to an audience of young musicians and creatives. For AW23, designer Rosa Marga Dahl explored forgotten stories through the artefacts we encounter on a daily basis. “It’s about processing, observing, remembering and finally, evolving,” she explained. The entire mostly-monochrome collection – trench coats, wide-legged suit trousers and the occasional pair of thigh-high leather boots – was inspired by materials, postcards and photographs found in antique stores and house sales.
One of several Ukrainian designers showing this season, LITKOVSKA presented her elegant craft in the cavernous concrete of The Feuerle Collection. Named “vesninka” after the hopeful spring folk songs that have been sung in her homeland for thousands of years, the collection of artisanal suits and dresses – all entirely handmade, the fabric itself spun on 100-year-old looms – was accompanied by a live Ukrainian choir.
LML Studio’s third collection, “CUM DEDERIT”, took us to church. The early 14th century Saint Mary’s, to be precise, where pamphlets on Homosexualität und Evangelische Kirche were handed out to all attendees, laying out the complicated history of exactly that. Designer Lucas Meyer-Leclère was baptised here, today presenting his own take on communion for both his fashion and religious communities. Here, after all, is where he first attended services with “priests from every gender, sexual orientation and religion… a place of contemplation and freedom but also a place of joy”. His heavily-distressed parade of classic silhouettes was soundtracked by a playful mash-up of Vivaldi, Madonna, Kraftwerk and Bach – played on an organ that dates back to 1720.
An altogether different kind of queer utopia played out at Namilia, where a local star-studded cast of models walked for a stylish front row of friends and fans of the brand. Very much ready for the club, the collection examines what happens when society permits queerness to flourish outside of expectations. “We want queer people to embody every aspect of themselves, a radical reclamation of any part of ourselves that society has tried – and failed – to subdue,” proclaimed the designer. The collection featured a capsule collaboration with Electronic Arts Inc racing game Need For Speed, seen across the twisted biker jackets paired with studded penis-shaped bags and tiny lace-up bustiers. The Motomami of it all! Meanwhile, floor-length wigs swept the floor and freakish prosthetics gave models spiked foreheads and pierced horns.
Last on the schedule was French designer Lou de Bètoly, returning after several seasons to show her AW23 collection at Kreuzberg’s stark white Queen Palace ballroom. Gorgeous crochet bodysuits and delicate knitted creations in pastel colours met puffball skirts in denim and leather; elsewhere, scraps of fabric pieced together to form miniskirts, bikini tops and patchwork dresses. Lou took us out on a high, with a stunning collection made from nothing but recycled textiles – a recurring theme at Berlin Fashion Week AW23. FD
Emma Corrin and Kendall Jenner lead Miu Miu’s SS23 campaign
Like us, you’ve no doubt been awaiting the arrival of Miu Miu SS23 — a collection that brought elegance, rawness and sexiness to banal, uniform garment archetypes – since you first saw FKA Twigs storm the runway. You’ve been dreaming of adding Mrs Prada’s iconic sandal sock boots, layered stone-hued tops and quintessential low-rise shorts and miniskirts over a flash of the waistband of lingerie to your basket. Well, it’s now here (!!!) and to celebrate the collection’s release, a short film and image series by Zoë Ghertner sees the self-expressive and playfully rebellious nature of the garments explored on the likes of Emma Corrin, Kendall Jenner, Ewan McGreggor’s daughter Esther and k-pop singer Yoona – stars who embody the distinctive look, impeccable style and desire to challenge convention that is at the heart of Miu Miu. TG
And Gigi Hadid and Selena Forrest lead Givenchy’s SS23 ads
When it came down the runway, Givenchy SS23 paired the elegance of the archival pieces created by its founder with the streetwear look beloved by the French luxury house’s most loyal wearers. Now that same energy takes over the collection’s advertising campaign. Photographed by Heji Shin and conceived of by creative director Matthew Williams, Gigi Hadid stuns in a fitted neon green ruched dress with gloves, the new Voyou bag in the same colour and futuristic sunglasses, or a bondage style leather bra and biker-esque jeans with another iteration of the Voyou bag in black. Then there’s Selena Forrest in a low-draping backless gown or a cropped hoodie, patched denim skirt and swamping duvet coat. Finally, there’s Luna Passos seen in a broad shoulder top and sultry leather wrap skirt or in jeans with a classic 50s style jacket. Each photo perfectly showcases the melding of both Hubert and Matthew’s unique worlds that have come to define the new Givenchy. TG
Everything you need to know from the past month of menswear shows
Now, we’re not implying that any of you would ever be so foolish as to sleep through fashion month. In case you did, consider this your chance to discreetly get back up to speed before the next round commences with the AW23 womenswear shows in just (deep breath, now!) two weeks. To save yourself from looking like a pillock when someone asks what you thought of Raf and Miuccia’s latest menswear outing, have a skim of our handy round-up of everything that went down in Milan. And if you want to be able to deliver a confident soliloquy on why you loved Loewe, our Paris round-up is where you’ll find no end of handy cues! You’re very welcome indeed! MS
Zeid Hijazi is the designer fusing Palestinian craft and high glamour
We often talk about prestigious industry prizes like the LVMH Prize, ANDAM and The Woolmark Prize, but beyond schemes that have historically focussed on talent from fashion’s traditional capitals, there are a good number that deserve similar praise and recognition, too. One example is Fashion Trust Arabia, an organisation and award scheme dedicated to uplifting emerging designers hailing from across the MENA region. For proof of the calibre of the talent it platforms, look no further than CSM alumnus Zeid Hijazi, a Jordanian-Palestinian designer who now calls London home. Quickly earning a name in the Middle East for his brooding, dramatically elegant work that merges Muglerian silhouettes and traditional Palestinian crafts techniques, he took home one of Fashion Trust Arabia’s inaugural prizes in 2020. As he releases Kalt, his first full collection since taking home the applause-worthy gong, we catch up with Zeid on the significance of his work, his collaborations with Palestinian craftswomen in Jordan and Lebanon, and his dream of dressing Bella Hadid.
Could you summarise the spirit of your latest collection for us in 3 words?
A seductive, architectural device.
What’s the story behind the title?
Well, it’s a character from a Tunisian film titled “Bedwin Hacker”. Kalt hacks European TV frequencies to post pro-Arab messages.
What was the main jumping-off point for the collection?
This is my first season after winning the Fashion Trust Arabia prize, so it was either go big or go home. I wanted to show the world the true essence of Middle Eastern craftsmanship! It was really important for me to set the tone for the brand and for people to easily identify a Zeid Hijazi piece. I revisited all the references I’ve gathered over the span of six years at Central Saint Martins, and came across an image of a dagger ironically titled ‘The Hijazi Dagger’ (Hijaz is a region in Saudi Arabia). Middle Eastern daggers are usually worn by Bedouins, and that’s when I stumbled upon the film “Bedwin Hacker” directed by Nadia El Fani. That dagger then went on to be my logo which I’m very proud of to this day.
Give us three images that were on your moodboard.
A still from Leila K’s Electric music video – she’s very worth checking out, by the way! A collage of a Dagger headpiece I made which later on made it to the final lineup. A page from a book titled Wildflowers of Palestine.
Are there any standout techniques in the collection?
I worked with women residing between Beirut and Amman, aiming to develop a range of products that are truly the core of the collection. The “Moon of Palestine” neckties, for example, were developed with the Association for the Development of Palestinian Camps (INAASH) in Lebanon, and such collaborations will keep on happening season after season. It doesn’t only bring income for those women, but it will also allow this craft to preserved for generations to come.
Which style icon do you see wearing the collection?
Bella Hadid! I know it’s a totally predictable answer, but she’s Palestinian, and I’m Palestinian. It only makes total sense that I dress her. Bella if you’re reading this please reach out, we’ll get you sorted 😉
