Bologna’s underground rave scene is fighting to survive

In Bologna, the fight against oppression and street raves are invariably intertwined. Nicknamed La Rossa due to the deep red hue of the ancient buildings and it being an epicentre of Italy’s political left, the world’s oldest student city (teaching at the university began in around 1088) has become a hub for untethered freedom of expression. Currently, a resistance against Giorgia Meloni’s far-right coalition government is building.

It’s not uncommon for students with early morning classes to wake up to invitations slathered across the walls of the University district, left by activists during the night. A date, time, location and a call to rave for freedom. Just hours later, the fresh graffiti tends to be painted over — but the word has already spread. Streets, parks and sometimes even university buildings become the venue for these parties, where young people feel free to express themselves and have fun.

Meloni’s cabinet passed the decreto anti-rave on the 30 December 2022, which could subject organisers of raves involving more than 50 people to €10,000 fines and up to 6 years in prison. The bill also authorises the surveillance of suspected organisers, including tapping their phones. In a city where demonstrations against oppressive government actions and raves have been united for years, many fear this new law threatens Italian citizens’ right to protest too, as well as compromising Bologna’s electric youth culture.

On Saturday 21 April, 15,000 people danced behind trucks blaring techno in a rave parade through the city organised by Smash Repression. We spoke to the young ravers about why the scene in Bologna means so much to them.

a person sits on the grass by the road wearing a black cut off vest and blue jeans. they have a mohawk and facial piercings and are smiling at the camera, squinting because of the sun.

Nico, 18, Fano

Why do you come to these raves in Bologna?
It’s like a family. It’s amazing to dance freely in a space which is ours and where we can’t do anything wrong. It’s an accepting atmosphere, we all take care of each other. We don’t need anything from the outside, we have all we need within us. Here we can express that, it’s a place of sharing love.

What will be lost with the decreto anti-rave?
Without a space like this, we cannot be ourselves. I’ve been in many other party situations but the energy and the love you find at raves in Bologna cannot be replicated anywhere else. It’s far more accepting than a traditional venue like a club.

a person stands on the road with their hands clasped to their front. they're wearing bicycle shorts and a red nightgown. their hair is curly.

Tiamat, 20, Milan

What can you tell me about the rave scene here?
It’s about freedom. We are people who want to party, be happy and enjoy ourselves. We are not violent, we are not here to destroy anything, we are just here to enjoy ourselves.

What do you think about the recent government efforts to ban raves?
We will continue to party. They are just making their lives more difficult by trying to control this. This law is simply an oppression of people trying to be themselves, so to them I say: fuck you.

a person wearing a yellow denim vest over a t-shirt smiles at the camera in the street at a protest.

Carole, 31, Bologna

What is your relationship to the rave scene in Bologna?
I grew up here. In the 2000s I was very involved in the rave scene and we occupied buildings in protest. I moved to Berlin and saw the rave culture there, it’s much more real here in Bologna. It’s less commercialised.

Why do people rave here?
In Bologna, people rave because we don’t have any other spaces where we can express ourselves. We used to have a lot more occupation and raves but now, with the new government, we have less. This is the only way we can be who we are and take back the city. The decreto anti-rave is not compatible with the freedom of people living in Italy.

a person at a rave carries a can of beer. they are wearing a leather onepiece with a golden zip, fishnets over their arms and protective glasses. their hair is cropped and red.

Sara, 22, Puglia

Why is the rave scene here important to you?
I only started coming to the rave parties in January. For me, it’s been great to bond with my friends and bring us closer. We study, we have our life under control but we also want to party and have fun. It always feels like a very safe place where people help each other. The clubs are so pricey. At a free party like this, you can have fun without a cost. I feel safer at these rave parties because there are always people who want to help you.

How is the scene different to your home town?
It’s a different subculture. People who study in this city share very similar experiences. When I leave, I don’t feel the same level of connection to other people. Here it’s just easier, people are far more accepting. You can make a new friend in 10 minutes if you want to. It’s so open minded; it’s the Italian Berlin.

a person stands in the street with their hands above their head showing their armpits. they have black tape over their nipples and a belly button piercing. they have a fringe and blue paint on their face and body.

Anna, 22, Ascoli Piceno

Why are you at this rave today?
For me, this is an opportunity to truly feel free and comfortable. Sadly there are always people who disappoint me, even here. Just half an hour ago, some guy poured his beer on me and when I asked him why, he told me: ‘I wanted to.’ If you think you can touch my body without my consent then there is more wrong with you than the way I look.

Are there people here who you can go to when you feel unsafe like this?
Yes, there are. I feel good here today. There is a group called marche gruppo simpatica. If there’s someone like that, who is touching you or making you feel uncomfortable, then they’ll keep them away from the party.

at night, a person with purple and pink shoulder length hair throws up 'rock' symbols with their hands. they're wearing small white sunglasses.

Mia, Bologna, 22

Tell me about why you’ve come to the streets to party?
Right now in government, there are people who want to cancel our free rave culture. So we’re all having a big party together, and nobody can stop us. We’re getting revenge against them. This is more than dancing and getting drunk; it’s rave culture. It’s about being together and enjoying the moment – that’s why we’re here tonight.

Why are Bologna’s street raves so special?
There are a lot of people who want to do the same thing: love each other, dance and have a good time. It’s one of the few cities where a strong rave culture has really remained. We’ll keep having parties like today.

at night, a person in the street wears jeans, a, orange belt, a cropped lace top made of tights and a leather waistcoast. they have a tear painted on thier face and have brown curly hair.

Olmo, 21, Milan

What’s your connection to the rave scene here?
I don’t come to the raves here often, but whenever I do it feels like an environment to experiment. The atmosphere is better than Milan — it’s more accepting, everyone can really express themselves.

How do you feel about government efforts to ban these events?
The decree is total shit. It’s useless and harmful. I feel safer here than some of the clubs in Milano — the people are far more friendly. I have my friends here today, but I also know that there are people in the street who will help you if needed, irrespective of your nationality or gender.

Credits

Photography Isabel Farrington