Versace + Vaccarello = Versus Versace. That’s the latest victorious formula which Donatella Versace has masterminded for Versace’s younger sister line. Since rebooting the brand in 2005, by bringing on designers like Christopher Kane and J.W. Anderson, Donatella has been revving up the energy of Versus with collaborators like M.I.A. and non-seasonal drops on its website. Versus was the first line that Donatella creatively oversaw on her own, under the watchful eye of brother Gianni. “Versus Versace is still my baby, that’s why it’s so exciting and important for me to work with young designers on these capsule collections,” Donatella told i-D. “Versus Versace is the rebellious heart of Versace, about young energy and attitude. I want Versus to always be fearless, and always be pushing forwards. That’s why I love to work with the world’s best young designers and creatives so that it is always looking to the future.”
It felt like a thudding no-brainer when it was announced late last year that the Belgian sensualist dreamer Anthony Vaccarello would be the latest designer to take on Donatella’s baby. It’s not just that Vaccarello and Versus Versace has an awesome alliterating ring to it. It’s not even that Vaccarello grew up watching Versace shows on fuzzy TVs whilst on holiday in Sicily (he was raised in Belgian but has Italian roots), idolising a brand that would eventually feed into his own eponymous line. But it’s the enthusiastic love-in between Donatella and Vaccarello, which you immediately sense when they’re in the same room together. “I want to wear his clothes,” Donatella exclaimed when asked what drew her to Vaccarello’s work. “There’s something about Anthony’s work that made me notice it immediately. He cuts with such boldness, passion and freedom, and he loves to make women look and feel their best.”
So confident was Donatella in Vaccarello’s intuition for the house that he was left mostly to his own devices to design the collection after an initial meeting at the Versace apartment in Milan (“a dream come true”). “I like to give designers as much creative freedom as possible,” said Donatella. “Once I’m happy with their ideas, I let them create without interference, because I want their best work. We then come together to fit the collection, so that we all know the results are perfect.” Similarly, Vaccarello was so confident in his knowledge of Versace DNA, that he didn’t even have to look at the Versus archives. “The house has such a strong identity, it’s very fun to play with,” said Vaccarello. “I did it how I think Versus should be today, with all my memories of the brand in my head. I tried to base the collection on these souvenirs.”
One of these archival mementos included an energetic 1997 Versus show in New York, one of the first designed by Donatella after Gianni Versace handed over the design reins to her. “It was very Versace because all the supermodels were there but it was also very minimal and less baroque and glitzy. You had all that Versace impact but it was very clean and contemporary.” Another was model Tasha Tilberg smoldering in Bruce Weber’s pared back campaign for Versus in the 90s. Both found their way into Vaccarello’s instinctively designed collection. Black, sharp and often held together with gold Versace-insignia, it was direct and to the point. Especially when embodied by aforementioned Versus muse Tilberg and Vaccarello fave Anja Rubik. “Legs, legs, legs, legs, she gotta have,” sang Chromeo on the Chuck Inglish soundtrack. That basically summed up many a frock and skirt and one super hot low-V swimsuit, spliced with Versace’s signature Greek fret graphics. Normally print-shy in his own collections, Vaccarello boldly ventured into pattern with a revived monochrome scarf print on bomber jackets and sharp blazers. “It’s good to have that challenge to do something new,” said Vaccarello. “I wanted to do Versace print in a 90s Saved By The Bell mood – fun, black and white and super graphic.”
There was also a nod to the infamous safety pin Versace number worn by Liz Hurley in 1994. This time it was shorter, with asymmetric sleeves and a showcase of Vaccarello’s penchant for dangerous cutting to reveal the body. “Strangely I didn’t even think of that image when I was designing the dress,” laughed Vaccarello. “But when the Versace team saw it, they said it was like the baby sister of the dress.” The homage clearly impressed as Donatella chose to wear the dress to take her joint exit with Vaccarello.
Just as Donatella’s late 90s Versus shows played host to the likes of Republica and Les Rhythmes Digitales to assert the importance of music-fuelled energy, the show quickly segued into a raucous after party, where Donatella’s current favourite band St. Vincent performed. “I loved that night in New York so much! The energy in the room was insane, with people so excited to see Anthony’s collection”
Whilst the collection was mostly born out of Vaccarello’s innate V-sense, it wasn’t until the show was happening, that he grasped what he had actually achieved. “When I was backstage, watching the show on screen with Donatella, and seeing how happy she was with the results… that was the moment I realised that I had succeeded at what I set out to do.” Vaccarello’s vision for Versus clearly hit all the right notes. The collection was made immediately available online on the Versus website and two days later, all the eveningwear looks were sold out and in stores, the collection is currently being re-ordered for the third time. Versus + Vaccarello = Victory.
You get the feeling that this V+V power duo has got legs. Long and lithe ones, striding forward in something, short, sharp and black of course!
@versus_
Credits
Text Susie Lau
Photography Collier Schorr
Fashion Director Alastair McKimm
Photography assistent Sam Nixon
Digital Technician Técnico digital Jonathan Nesteruk
Styling assistent Katelyn Gray, Julia Sanchis Meseguer
Creative Direction Franck Durand
Casting Piergiorgio Del Moro
Models Edita Vilkeviciute and Marcel Castenmiller @ DNA. Amanda Murphy, Ronja Furrer, Andreea Diaconu at IMG. Chiharu Okunugi and Malaika Firth at New York Model Management. Vanessa Moody and Anna Ewers at Women. Tim Schuhmacher at VNY. Lina Berg at Fusion. Special thanks to Donatella and Allegra Versace
All clothing Versus Versace spring/summer 15.