Happy Met Gala weekend, girlies. Monday is, of course, the most talked about event of the fashion calendar and we wait to see what spellbinding look Kim K has in store for us at this year’s Karl Lagerfeld-themed event (read everything you need to know before the big night here). But in the meantime, fashion has a handful of updates to last you through the long Bank Holiday weekend. From a Bottega Veneta’s Katezine to Florence Pugh showcasing her acting range for Valentino — here’s what’s in fashion.
Bottega Veneta launches its Katezine
The Sphynx of fashion, the Garbo of London, the Patroness Saint of hedonism, Croydon’s finest … Who isn’t a fan of Kate Moss? Well, Bottega Veneta’s creative director Matthieu Blazy is a bonafide stan, so much so that his latest project for the Italian fashion house is an entire zine dedicated to the British icon. It turns out that Matthieu has been a stan for decades, and the zine features copies of his teenage scrapbooks featuring iconic images of the model, which he would print out in his childhood home. “Kate Moss was my first Google search,” he explained. “She was the first photo to be printed on the family printer. Whenever I hear a modem, I think of Kate, because I mainly looked for her pictures as a teenager — it’s a sound I will forever relate to her.” Available in Bottega Veneta stores, the project is the latest in a long line of printed matter that crystallises the house’s off-kilter partnerships. Earlier this year, the house released a book celebrating its partnership with iconic designer Gaetano Pesce — for more on that, read our interview with him here.
Back in September, Mossy opened Matthieu’s debut house for the show, dressed in a jeans and flannel shirt (albeit entirely crafted in leather) that was an homage to her 90s style. “She became a personal icon,” added Matthieu of his enduring obsession. “It was, for me, a very serious teenage activity that became an everyday term at home. If I was doing my ‘Kate Moss’, it meant I was in the middle of collecting pictures. This hobby became a sort of education.” Really, it’s a sweet full-circle moment when you think about it. Who says you shouldn’t meet your heroes? OA
A Vivienne Westwood corset show is just around the corner
Underwear as outerwear is perhaps one of the eminent trends in contemporary womenswear over the past few years, but long before designers like KNWLS, Supriya Lele, Nensi Dojaka and Sinéad O’Dwyer took up the mantle, there was, of course, Vivienne Westwood. Since the mid 80s, the late queen of punk made the subversion of the connotations of women’s undergarments – finding innovative ways to reframe pieces that were synonymous with the restriction of women’s bodies, and turn them into emblems of empowered feminine expression – a cornerstone of her practice. Without a doubt, the garment that most aptly embodies Vivienne Westwood’s visionary approach is the corset, with the designer’s pieces – many of which were created in collaboration with legendary corsetier Mr Pearl – now among some of the brand’s most sought after at resale. From May 8th – 21st, running in tandem with London Craft Week, some of the designer’s most iconic corsets and runway looks will be exhibited at the brand’s Mayfair flagship store. To commemorate the occasion, visitors will also be able to shop a limited edition jewellery collection, which features a gold-plated charm of the Portrait corset, which was first shown in Vivienne Westwood’s AW87 collection. MS
Jimmy Choo and MyTheresa head to Venice for their new collab
“Venice is all about the arrival,” said Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo, when giving a speech to announce the British footwear brand’s new collaboration with German e-tailer MyTheresa.com, in the floating Italian city. “Here, the arrival is all about glamour,” she added. Hence, the glitterati flocked to the Grand Canal this week to celebrate the launch of the collection, as well as a Jimmy Choo takeover of the city’s most storied gelateria, Nico’s (order the specially-created grapefruit sorbet, if you happen to be in town this month). Although the vertiginous stilettos and strappy sandals — resplendent in fuschia, apple green and sapphire blue satin — might not be the most appropriate footwear to navigate a gondola in, you bet that the likes of actress Amita Suman, Ivy Getty, Ikram Abdi, Lola Bute and Tsunaina did their best while shuttling between Cipriani and the local tour of Venice’s most glam spots. Zingy rhinestone bucket bags and Stabilo-bright neon pumps also comprised the capsule, which is available to shop online here now. Why not indulge in a pair and go on your own Grand Tour? A boat might be another essential requirement to the collection — perfect for putting your feet up as you cruise the canals in style.
Florence Pugh is a Di.Va
It’s no secret that Florence Pugh is the Hollywood starlet du jour. Whether it’s playing the angsty Amy March in love with Timothée Chalamet in Little Women to desert Princess Irulan in love with Timothee Chalamet in Dune: Part 2, we all know she has an unparalleled acting range that shows up anyone else who dares be on screen with her (RIP the entire rest of the cast of Don’t Worry Darling). So it makes sense that Pierpaolo Piccioli would crown her one of Valentino’s Di.Vas, joining Zendaya and Lewis Hamilton as a living embodiment of the house’s codes through their multifaceted values and defining the culture of today. In a photo series by Steven Meisel, the star goes through the emotions while wearing glamorous red carpet ready minidresses and Old Hollywood polka dot bodysuits with an array of Valentino’s standout bag and shoe offerings. She’s joyfully happy, then aggressively crying before screaming with rage: all the emotions we feel watching her on screen and then seeing she’s still not won an Oscar! TG
Dior in India, part II
This month, Dior has been all about one country: India. Following the fashion house’s Fall 2023 show — not to be confused with AW23, it should be noted — at the Gateway of India, Mumbai’s most iconic landmark, we now have the follow-up: a stunning campaign featuring the aforementioned collection against the sumptuous backdrop of Udaipur, the jewel of Rajasthan and former capital of the Mewar Kingdom. There’s something of a Sixties feel to the imagery, photographed by Viviane Sassen — perhaps paying homage to the work of Henry Clarke, who famously photographed Verushka in Rajasthan — with models standing against backdrops of stone temples, mashrabiya fretwork, and ancient sculptures, dressed in the collection that Maria Grazia Chiuri created in partnership with Mumbai’s Chanakya School of Craft. Our favourite shot? A duo of pink looks, shot at sunrise. After all, in the words of Diana Vreeland: “Pink is the navy blue of India”.
Moncler puffers aren’t just for winter
You know that hooded Moncler jacket you bought for the cold months, don’t put it to the back of your wardrobe until next fall just yet: the Italian luxury house’s SS23 campaign, photographed by Thierry Le Goues, showcases how the iconic piece of outerwear can be a wardrobe staple come rain or shine. As opposed to the sunny beaches, green fields and crisp waters we often associate with summer photography, here, the white, grey and blue metallic tones of the photos echo the cooling nature of the lightweight puffers and silken garms perfect for protecting you from those harmful UVs as much as storms and snow. These are outerwear pieces intended to perform after all, and if they work for the AI-generated Pope in the hot Italian sun, they can work for you, too. Check out Moncler’s SS23 collection on their site. TG
Kiko Kostadinov launches a new viral shoe
If you’re the sort of gal that loses their shit trying to secure a new Kiko Kostadinov sneaker the moment it drops (i.e. us), well, prepare to lose it again today. Why? Because Kiko Kostadinov just dropped a sneaker, duh! More than just any old sneaker, though, the latest footwear offering from the London-based label’s womenswear division is a hybrid between a classic trainer and the sheux of the moment – the ballet flat! Comprising a tongueless, iridescent leather upper stacked on an Asics Kayano-14 sole, with long multi-wear laces that wrap up around the calf, the Ballet Hybrid strikes a deliciously discordant harmony between cutesiness and rugged practicality. A must for the summer! MS
Nicholas Daley has the shades for your South London nights out
Whether it’s to complete your summer night-long rave look or to hide your hangover from the world the next morning, sunglass weather is incoming! And here with some fun, playful protective eyewear is Nicholas Daley, who has partnered with Sub Sun – the sunglass brand from Peckham DJ Bradley Zero – on a distinctive limited edition pair of frames. With bold, exaggerated curves inspired by 60s icons Harry Belafonte and Sidney Poitier, who both serve as muses for Nicholas’ Calypso collection for SS23, the shades come in an earthy green or vibrant purple. Available from global retailers including END. and LN-CC from sunday 30 April, this is the look for the South London party scene this season. But if you want to stand out from the other revellers at Rhythm Section, online there is an even more exclusive pair featuring unique purple tint lenses. TG
Courrèges’ new capsule collection was created for partying from sunset to sunrise
Ah, at last, brighter days are here (well, not really here in London lol), and the spirit of summer is upon us. Yes, it’s time to shimmy out of those cumbersome winter coats and into something a little slinkier – something you’ll want to dance from sunset all the way through till (and perhaps past, for the bold among you ) the sun rises again. If you’re scratching your head trying to figure out what you have in your wardrobe that fits that bill, fear not! Nicolas di Felice, the valiant creative director of Courrèges, has come to save the day with a new capsule collection purposefully created for the balmy nights ahead. Titled the Sunset collection, it riffs on the codes of beachwear, resulting is second skin dresses and tops, seashell jewellery, swimsuits, caps and sunglasses, as well as iconic Courrèges pieces – like the vinyl trucker jacket, the miniskirt and a pyramidal leather baguette – in gradient sunset hues. Amplifying the collection’s sublime summery vibes is a campaign short directed New York-based video maestros Torso, starring the girl at the centre of our summer moodboards: Amelia Gray. Do you need any more reasons to dash to one of Courrèges stores in Paris or New York, or, that failing, courreges.com? We don’t think so! MS
The Armani model sailing the Atlantic to raise awareness of a rare sight disease
Benjamin Demarquilly is best known for his turns on the catwalk, regularly walking shows for Giorgio Armani, and appearing in the brand’s eyewear campaigns. Last year, though, he decided to use the profile he’s built through his modelling work to draw attention to an issue close to his heart. After receiving a diagnosis for Retinitis Pigmentosa, a genetic degenerative vision disease for which there is still no cure, he decided to found the Horizon Foundation, a non-profit organisation committed to raising awareness around the condition, as well as funds for research. For Horizon’s first major project, back in January – and with support of Giorgio Armani – Benjamin and four friends set sail across the Atlantic, setting off from the Canary Islands and landing in Martinique. Below, we catch up with him on the journey, and how it helped to advance Horizon’s mission. MS
So, Benjamin, how was the crossing?
The crossing was by far the most beautiful and rewarding experience of my life. A trip far from everything, without a phone signal, cut off from the world. It allowed us all to reconnect with nature and to appreciate its truest beauties. The sunsets, the colours they offer, the sunrises, the starry nights, the choreographies of dolphins, and the passage of a blue whale that was a good twenty meters long. What a privilege it was!
How long did it take?
Given our boat, which was far from being one of the fastest, we thought it would take between 20 and 25 days from the Canary Islands to Martinique. In the end, we had quite a bit of wind which pushed us at a pretty good pace, and it took 18 days, which is quite a good time.
What’s your relationship to sailing?
I discovered it when I decided to go live in Martinique, 5 years ago now. I met captains and sailors whose lives consisted of living on boats and travelling the world, living in harmony with the sea without really worrying about the terrestrial world. I was coming out of 8 years of study of medicine/osteopathy in Lille, and seeing this very quickly absorbed me.
Could you tell us a bit about how and where the idea for Horizon Project first came about?
The day I announced to Clément, my friend and mother agent, that I had retinitis pigmentosa, we talked about it for a long time, several hours a day, and we decided that I had to talk about it, and that I could not continue hiding it from the clients, as my handicap is sometimes felt if, for example, the catwalk projectors or the camera flashes are too powerful.
We decided we would make it a strength, and create a project to raise awareness of this rare disease that is very little known and try to raise funds to help medical research. We also listed my dearest dreams, one of which – since my life in Martinique – was to sail across the Atlantic.
After meeting some of the Armani team at their show in Dubai at the end of 2021, and seeing the friendship that I quickly created with them, I thought that they could be an amazing partner for the project. A few months later, over a coffee, I presented the project and Mr. Armani agreed to help me realise this dream.
What compelled you to begin on this journey to raise awareness around retinitis pigmentosa?
According to the doctors and geneticists who follow me closely, research is advancing at breakneck speed. In 4-5 years, they have taken a huge step towards the possibility of finding a possible treatment for this disease. In fact, there are a hundred genes that can cause RP, and three years ago they found a way to stop the progression of the disease linked to a particular gene. Of course, there are 99 left but the hope is immense. We immediately said to ourselves that this project had to help advance this research, and that we use the fame of Giorgio Armani to raise awareness of pigmentary retinopathy.
What was your ultimate goal on this journey? And what do you hope people will take away from seeing complete it?
Of course, the main objective was awareness and fundraising, but it was also to be able to realise my dream. Today, doctors tell me that I have already lost half of my visual field in 4 years, so my goal is to achieve as many of dreams as possible, as quickly as possible, for fear of not being able to achieve them in the future. Or at least not in the same way.
Horizon’s name is due to the fact that we all have a horizon to cross in life, but sometimes we do not know what awaits us on the other side. Crossing horizons can be dangerous, but often beautiful things lie on the other side.
I hope people will see that you shouldn’t wait – that if you want something, you have to give yourself the means to get there, to overcome obstacles and live your life to the fullest with no regrets. Life is unpredictable, we don’t know what tomorrow will bring. Surround yourself with beautiful people who support you, as is the case with my Horizon team who accompany me every day. Dare, get started and live your life at 1000%!