There are few shows on the fashion calendar that ignite as much anticipation and excitement as John Galliano’s Maison Margiela artisanal collection. Ever since taking the reins of the house in 2014, Galliano has taken the few sage words Martin offered him following his appointment — “make it your own” — and transported the brand to a new realms.
For spring/summer 18 couture, he presented a collection made of PVC, polyurethane, prism film and Perspex, layered in a special light-reflecting and refracting fabric that was transformed by the flash of a camera phone. The resulting kaleidoscopic effect of the clothes that flooded social media was a knowing nod to the way we now consume show imagery, and a clever reimagination of how technology can inform the clothes we wear. His autumn/winter 18 ready-to-wear collection also incorporated elements of this holographic nature, translating the technique into more wearable garments.
For his autumn/winter 18 artisanal womenswear offering this morning in Paris, Galliano looked to explore “nomadic glamour” and continued to incorporate the futuristic elements he’s woven into the traditional world of haute couture. The collection was a fantastic progression from last season. Models wore archetypes of clothing reimagined into different items: a foam skirts fashioned into the motif of a jacket, a jacket cinched at the waist entirely filled with what looked to be insulation and a blazer reconstructed into a cape, as well the classic Galliano deconstructions. An all-over tulle body stocking, bin-liner skirts, platform shoes and décortiqué jackets. Platform versions of the divisive Tabi boot saw models towering over the audience.
Highlights included an oversized coat made from recycled silk scarves and felt, worn by Galliano favourite Teddy Quinlivan, as well as the VR headsets and iPhone holsters attached to forearms and ankles. There was even a television screen upon one model’s back, streaming the show itself.
The show took place within Margiela’s ateliers on 163, rue Saint-Maur in Paris, giving a first look at the new architectural design of the store itself. Designed by Amsterdam-based architecture firm Studio Anne Holtrop in collaboration with Galliano, the show “unveils the early stages of a new bold visual identity for its retail presence”, which is set to be completely rolled out later this year. “The Artisanal codes of the house are used to define gestures related to materials, creating a new architectural identity. The tensions it generates make the work very tactile, both physically and mentally. Within these tensions I believe new possibilities can emerge”, said Studio Anne Holtrop of the design.
Find out more about Galliano’s inspirations behind the collection in the second edition of Maison Margiela’s new podcast, The Memory of… With John Galliano.