“René Lacoste was not a designer, he was an inventor,” the brand’s creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista told us at last season’s spring/summer 15 show. This season again saw a nod to the founder’s pioneering spirit; Baptista was here to let everyone know “René did it first.”
“I was speaking to someone and they asked me if Lacoste really did make the first polo. I said ‘yeah, René did it first,’ so that’s where everything started,” Baptista explained backstage. The designer tapped into the brand’s long, strong heritage of innovation and function by blending different moments within Lacoste’s archives. Fall/winter 15 tailoring lifted from the casual refinement and simple silhouettes of the 30s, while the collection’s typographic treatments and rich color palette gave off strong 70s vibes. “I wanted to have a bit of fun and a sense of humor so it’s kind of mixing the bourgeois and the street, the 70s and the 30s. It’s putting all of that together in a fun way,” said Baptista.
While last season’s spotlight was on super sporty separates, Baptista brought this season back to basics with a focus on tracksuits. Whether thick cotton jersey or breezier silks and nylons, the monochrome looks amount to an easy chicness that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Paired with warm wool overcoats in light greys and camels, Baptista’s bold hues really popped. The designer struck the right balance between light but structured sportswear pieces and the casual sophistication of long, protective coats. Richie Tenenbaum would highly approve (Baptista seemingly lifted his accessories touches from the Wes Anderson pro as well: both boys and girls cruised down the catwalk in Baumer’s signature sweatbands.)
But don’t mistake Lacoste’s playful nostalgia as compromising the collection’s technical integrity. Experimenting with versatility and urban functionality, Baptista’s easily convertible pieces range from sweaters and outerwear with unfastenable sleeves and dresses that can be rocked any number of ways. “It’s about keeping the pieces warm but at the same time, very light,” Baptista explained. “Although things are looking retro technically, they’re interesting because of the fabrics. I wanted to create things that adapt to your life and your mood.”
Credits
Text Emily Manning
Photography Kate Owen