There’s a lot of fireworks this weekend in the UK and maybe that’s to do with bonfire night or maybe that’s to do with Maximilian Davis’ debut collection for Ferragamo finally being released to the masses. Who’s to say. In other fashion news worth celebrating, LOVERBOY is becoming a hyperpop icon; Martine Rose has collabed with Tommy Hilfiger; Polo Ralph Lauren have entered the world of Fortnite; Gucci are bringing back menswear and Supriya Lele drops her SS23 collection. There’s also sexy new announcements from Lacoste, Puma, Acne Paper, Dior, Aries, Balenciaga and ultra-luxe mohair blanket makers Magniberg. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Get your hands on Maximilian’s debut collection for Ferragamo now
Back in September, the typically classicismo shows of Milan Fashion Week were shaken up by a jolt of new energy when London wunderkind Maximilian Davis made his red-hot debut for Florentine heritage house Ferragamo (née Salvatore; he dropped the first name). The collection, as he told us back then, was inspired by Salavtore’s success in Hollywood in the 1930s, making shoes for the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland and Audrey Hepburn. “When I joined Ferragamo, it was about understanding Salvatore and what the starting point was,” Max explained. “For him, it was when he got into making shoes in Hollywood — and so I started by thinking about that.” But this is not Old Hollywood, instead it’s a contemporary languid Los Angeles glamour of today. Think late nights at the Chateau Marmont, early morning hikes taking in the sunset on Runyon Canyon, and that delicious mix of health and hedonism. It’s all there in the collection, from Max’s take on a sparkling-red tuxedo, to swimwear, cut-out accessories and the mottled-paint prints that graced the catwalk back in September. The accompanying campaign is shot by Jackie Nickerson in LA, and the first ‘drop’ of the collection comes out today. But, be quick! The capsule is only available for a month, both at Ferragamo.com and in stores worldwide. OA
LOVERBOY launches its debut album
Already known as one of London’s best-loved designers and party hosts, this week Charles Jeffrey has only gone and added another string to his bow – and we mean quite literally! That’s because the legendary Loverboy has just released his very first album, Neko. A collaborative endeavour, with lyrics penned alongside multidisciplinary artist Robert Fox and production with experimental musician Tom Furse – formerly of The Horrors – the LP is a genre-irreverent sonic journey, “oscillating from the classical to the industrial via soaring synths, hypnotic beats and spoken word courtesy of rising rapper Taliable,” a release reads. To fete the release, the collaborative trio behind the album have also released conceptual videos for the tracks “Take Me There”, “Black Hole” and “Blast” – which, in a canny move, also double as showcases for LOVERBOY’s AW22 collection, available to buy now via the brand’s site. For the die-hard fans, the launch will also be accompanied by a merch capsule and a limited edition vinyl. There’s a hell of a lot to love about this latest dispatch from the LOVERBOY world! MS
Martine Rose and Tommy Hilfiger just dropped a new collab
We’re always sitting on the edge of our seats waiting for whatever Martine Rose will come out with next. Whether it’s through her mainline collections under her own name, or through the collaborations she’s racked up, she invariably proves herself a master of subtle, delightfully tongue in cheek subversion. The latest example of that comes by way of her most recent partnership with Tommy Hilfiger, which dropped on Thursday. Drawing on the all-American brand’s 90s icons – its preppy blue jeans, striped shirts and harrington jackets – the 35-piece gender-inclusive collection has been reimagined through Martine’s inimitable lens; expectedly, exaggerated plays on proportion and zany colour combinations abound. Where it all comes to life, though, is a collaboration shot by Buck Ellison and styled by Tamara Rothstein, in which Black and Asian gay couples are cast in American-as-apple-pie domestic settings.“I really enjoyed being able to explore American subculture and create a campaign that not only celebrates, but rightly spotlights marginalised communities,” Martine says. “Tommy Hilfiger has always been a brand that I’ve drawn inspiration from, so this partnership was such a natural and organic marriage.” Cheers to that! MS
Lacoste’s new trainer is both runway and court ready
If you’re looking for a chic new running trainer look no further than Lacoste who have brought out the L003 Active Runway trainer. Modelled in the campaign by British R&B artist Ella Mai, the shoes have a signature and instantly-recognisable unique lacing system along with a thick sole, standout branding that references the locations of the Lacoste Paris office and its “kitchen”, aka it’s historical original factory, and bright neon colourways, one of which is a luminescent yellow to reference a tennis ball of course, a nod to the brand’s heritage. The trainer is based off of those seen in the latest Lacoste runway show, giving it a fashion edge, but the style has been modified to make it ready for the streets and physical activity. Check it out at Lacoste.com now! TG
Ralph Lauren jockey chic has come to Fortnite
Have you ever been butchering a mob of zombies and thought, “Damn, I wish I was wearing an outfit as iconic as I’m being right now”? Well, now you can, both digitally and IRL. Polo Ralph Lauren have partnered with Epic Games to create a collection of clothing in the Fortnite Item Shop for you to slay on the battlefield while you, quite literally, slay on the battlefield. Sets of racing-driver-style jumpsuits in shades of red, black and white and with snatched belted waists are branded with the Polo Ralph Lauren logo that draws from the brand’s renowned 1992 stadium collection. There’s also futuristic boots inspired by both the motor and ski worlds dropping next year. But what’s more, outside of the game world, there are unisex polo tops and caps in the signature Ralph Lauren style, except look closely at the jockey logo and you’ll see he’s now riding one of the llama pinatas from the Fortnite universe. Check out the first drop collection on the Ralph Lauren site as well as the digital wardrobe on Fortnite, and keep an eye out for more to come from this collaboration in the coming months! TG
Dapper Dan’s take on Puma is here
Of all the designers mentioned in this feature, there is perhaps none more legendary than Dapper Dan. 50 years ago, he opened his namesake boutique in Harlem and changed the course of fashion forever, crafting the look of Hip-Hop by outfitting its stars in the first iterations of logomania. However, it’s taken a while for the industry to embrace Dap — he was famously sued by the likes of Fendi and Gucci in the early 90s — but now, he is one of the creative forces of American fashion. As was made clear by the SS23 Puma show that blew up New York Fashion Week back in September. Dap was invited to collaborate on the collection, which was a celebration of Hip-Hop throughout the decades. The result was his distinctly bold clashing patterns, emblazoned across sports-luxe tracksuits and velour t-shirts with varsity-style, crystal-embellished ‘DDP’ logos. It’s fabulously bling — a concept that Dap practically invented. Get yours now over at Puma.com.
Gucci brings back the binary!
The binary is back! You may have noticed, dear readers, that we have been witnessing the revival of gendered catwalk shows. But wait a minute, what about gender-fluidity, I hear you ask! Well, what briefly captured the hearts of fashion’s creative directors and executives has dissipated into an almost subversive embrace of traditional binaries. Yes, really. Menswear is menswear, womenswear is womenswear. And thought some designers continue to mix and match, and make their wares available for anyone and everyone — the way that Fashion houses are presenting clothes is going back to more traditional distinctinctions between womenswear and menswear. The latest to draw the line between the two is Gucci! Arguably the most fluid of all fashion houses is reclaiming its slice of the menswear pie by returning to the men’s schedule during Milan Fashion Week in January. What does this mean? Well, where Gucci goes, others follow. Stay tuned for more news of back-to-the-binary bulletins.
Magniberg celebrates their luxurious new launch with Casper Sejeresen
In order to launch their most lush product yet – a limited collection of ultra-luxurious mohair ‘Lady Blankets’ – Swedish bedwear brand Magniberg, founded by Bengt Thornefors and Nina Norgren, tapped photographer Casper Sejersen to celebrate the collection via a short film. “Garden Of Lust”, which premiered last night at Kunsthal Charlottenborg in Copenhagen, not only introduces the handwoven blankets made with Lena Rewell Textile Studio – a family-owned mill that has been refining the craft of hand weaving since 1962 – but explores Bengt’s lifelong interest in ballet. “I’m fascinated by ballet and have a secret fantasy about becoming a ballet dancer. Maybe in another life? I’m captivated by that mix of authentic emotion and grandeur in dance,” he says. “My friend, the photographer Casper Sejersen, knows about this and envisioned my dream about dance, through creating a beautiful film featuring ballet; bodies and blankets morphing into shapes.” Set to a score by August Rosenbaum, the soft beauty of the blankets is captured in slowed, poetic motion, as dancers from the the Royal Danish Ballet and Tivoli Ballet twist, twirl and run through a field of wildflowers draped in the fabric. “A blanket should be a thing of comfort, of beauty even. It should be more… softer, heavier, fluffier and decorative,” Bengt adds. Watch the dazzling short film above to see the various striped hues of pink and blue in action – there are 13 colorways that offer a fresh take on Magniberg’s Wall Street pinstripe, now available on their site. You might just be lusting to bring a bit of balletcore into your home. ND
Acne Paper celebrates the 100th birthday of Atticus
Fashion bibliophiles, unite! Acne Paper, one of the most erudite style publications out there, has just launched its 17th issue. Although calling it a “style publication” falls a bit short of the mark. A testament to its longstanding experimental nature, the latest issue – titled Atticus – takes the idea of a hybrid to its extreme. Part biography, part novel, part cultural and art journal and part fashion magazine; what holds it all together is the tale of Atticus, an imagined art world doyen who’s celebrating his 100th birthday. To toast his centenary, more than 50 contemporary artists have contributed works, while the centrepiece is a five-chapter magnum opus by the man himself, which, among other historical episodes, ruminates on the AIDS crisis and the talented people lost during it, among them Larry Stanton. To commemorate the launch, Acne Studios will also be releasing a capsule featuring the works of the late artist, and organising a series of exhibitions in the brands stores worldwide. Here here, Atticus! MS
Charlize Theron and Thebe Magugu have partnered with Dior for a new charitable collection
Partnering with CTAOP (that’s actress Charlize Theron’s Africa Outreach Programme) which specialises in supporting grassroots organisations on the continent, Maria Grazia Chiuri invited Thebe Magugu to design a capsule collection for Dior, with a donation also being made on behalf of the house to the programme’s work. Thebe, of course, won the LVMH prize back in 2019 for his designs that explored and paid homage to South African youth culture and his latest six pieces for Dior bring the house’s monogram to bucket hats, ruched sheer skirts and decorative ribbons brandishing a tee, scarf and leather boots, all with a sisterhood emblem that is, in Thebe’s words, “symbolic of this refuge for women”. Available now in store and online, there’s also a video featuring Thebe, Charlize and Maria explaining the importance and meaning of the collection alongside behind-the-scenes clips of its creation. TG
Balenciaga and adidas take Bella Hadid to the office
Offices are often patently dull places, but if there’s anyone who can make them look chic, it’s the team over at Balenciaga. Or teams, rather, at Balenciaga and Adidas. For the much anticipated launch of this most titanic of collaborations, which debuted in the French fashion house’s blockbuster show staged at the New York Stock Exchange, Balenciaga has released a slick new campaign. With stills shot by photojournalist Joshua Bright and videos by Rosie Marks, it sees house mainstays like Bella Hadid and Isabelle Huppert shot in a Manhattan highrise, perched above the streets where the show originally took place. Sporting the collaborations roomy three-stripe tracksuits, puffers and tees, they’re seen surrounded by workplace detritus – piles of paper, jars of pens, corded landline phones – acting out mundane, often despair-inducing office tasks. Whoever thought something so bleak could be made to look so chic! MS
Supriya Lele dropped her SS23 collection!
We’ve all done that messy walk of shame home after a night out that went on for a bit too long. But the girls in Supriya Lele’s SS23 collection, photographed by Jack Day on the city’s streets and minimal hotel-like hallways, were not in the distressed clothes of the night before. No, they were on their way to the function – confidently striding along the pavement in daylight work hours with full glam makeup and a lot of skin, and fishnets, on show. Captured like a paparazzi shot akin to the 00s era of celebrity, the models had glittering halter neck tops peering from under boxy leather jackets, string-tied bikini briefs towering over low-rise miniskirts, beaded and fringed fishnet flairs and fitted tops over skimpy lingerie and ruched dresses that feature adjustable ribbons and ties over three-quarter length bodysuits like the Bratz doll aesthetics of the late aughts.
But the layering also spoke to the traditional ways women within India wear clothes and, as usual with Supriya’s designs, her heritage peppered the collection. This time it was in the form of draped bright yet translucent tones in amethyst, cerulean and fuschia that play on the bright and fiery colours that the traditional dress of the subcontinent is renowned for. Meanwhile, two-pieces and – a new addition to Supriya’s offering – shirting, are dotted with intricate floral embellishments reminiscent of henna designs. These were clothes for the self-assured woman, one ready to step out and display her culture and her body on her own terms. TG
Aries, New Balance and AS Roma take to the pitch
Continuing on from their widely successful collaborations of seasons past, cult streetwear brand Aries and sportswear behemoths New Balance have teamed up once again. This time around, they’ve subbed in Italian football giants AS Roma as a third player for a ‘realisation of how sport, fashion and culture have become intertwined’ – according to Roman-born Aries Founder Sofia Prantera. The result? A bellissimo ‘Pre-Game’ collection (which releases today) including an eye-catching limited-edition metallic warm up jersey adorned with imagery of some of the Italian capital’s most historic figures from Lupa Capitolina to Julius Caesar, plus an all-black-everything training tracksuit – which will be worn by the AS Roma players as they lace up their boots ahead of a fierce clash with local rivals Lazio this Sunday at Stadio Olimpico. Keep an eye out for the equally stunning official “On-Pitch” kit which offers a classic Aries take on the team’s iconic red and yellow colourway with a signature tie-dye twist and rave-infused graphics – which arrives on November 22. When in Rome! DB