120 new models photographed over the last decade

When new models start out with an agency, they’re typically paired up with a photographer to take a series of portraits; a ‘go-see’ or test shoot used to build their portfolio. It’s something that has been part of Piczo’s practise for over 10 years now. Alongside shooting campaigns for Nicholas Daley, capturing Jennie from BlackPink at Chanel and Emma D’Arcy for i-D, the Osaka-born, east London-based photographer has welcomed a who’s who of the industry’s new faces into his home studio.

Piczo’s place is a bright, converted warehouse space shared with his fiancé Molly, who works for Comme de Garçons, and their dog Wellington. In typical Japanese fashion, models are encouraged to leave their shoes at the door and just relax. “I just try to hang out and capture that,” he says of his process. “There is no concept, no plan. It’s just us meeting for the first time and discovering who they are through photography.”

a white model with a brown bob reclines casually in a mid-century chair; an abstract yellow light stands in the foreground

Looking back over his work recently, Piczo realised what an expansive collection of these portraits he’d built up — 120 models, to be precise, shot in and around his home. He had unintentionally compiled a comprehensive look at the state of the modelling industry through the 2010s. “I thought it was worth compiling it as a book, an archive,” he says. Published by Tokyo’s Union, Visitors+ documents fresh-faced individuals from around the world — some who’ve made the city their home, others just passing through — their personalities captured through shaved heads, facial piercings and self-styled looks. It’s clear there’s something special about photographing new faces, a nervous energy in front of the camera. “Of course there’s some anxiety,” Piczo says, “but it’s also very real.”

Rather than ordering the book chronologically, tracking the evolution of fashion and aesthetics over the years, Piczo instead prioritises the flow of pages. He does, however, note a visible change in his personal style over the years. “It gets more simple in approach, more subtle,” he says. “I used to shoot more photos because I was shooting on digital and liked the images to be energetic; now I try to stay true to the individuals.” His favourite portrait of the 120 featured? A tight crop of Ethiopian model Amar Akway in low light. “It’s so simple,” he says, “but it really captures her beauty.”

‘Visitors+’ is available now and will be on display at London’s Photobook Cafe 13-16 July.

a brown model wearing blood orange merch balances four pairs of comedy sunglasses on her face as she leans against a window

an asian model with her hair in plaits looks to camera with a slight smile

an androgynous blonde model in a blue t-shirt and cap leans against a mid-century chair

a close crop of a model with dark skin; her pink tongue is visible in the low light

a mixed-race model with a nose piercing wearing a green hoodie holds her arms above her head

a young model in leather-look jeans and a gold lurex top stands looking to camera against a wall of photos

a blonde model in a long black dress and striped cardigan leans casually against a bedroom wall in the sun

an androgynous model with a shaved head looks to camera with water dripping from their face

an asian model with cropped dyed hair and dark nail polish leans casually in a window

a young blonde model with cute, prominent ears looks blankly to camera

a close up of a Black model's face with a rainbow of light across their eye, cheek and lips

Credits

All images courtesy Piczo