Since opening her eclectic Lower East Side store in 2008, and establishing her own line, the Iranian-born designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh has made a name for herself among New York designers. Her vintage-inspired pieces have become a staple for the Instagram set, and her autumn/winter 19 show saw a notably young audience, in an airy East Village space that can only be described as an urban oasis. Lush green plants, ornate mirrors, and Persian rugs provided the perfect backdrop, and models walked through a maze of mismatched wooden chairs, filled with eager onlookers for the show that every cool downtown girl wanted to witness. The show notes were an abstract poem to the appeal of Nassir Zadeh’s reworked yet modern aesthetic:
A phase that is not yet finished
A pull, a gravitation
Karma
Lessons + radical forgiveness
Highest good
Completion
New ways of interacting
Peaceful
Surrender to spirit
Over horizons
Everything you want
Answered prayer
Joy
This season, Maryam’s minimalist separates were updated with rich leathers, luxe silks, and loads of animal print. The show opened with a series of monochromatic pieces, creamy colored corduroy vests layered over ruffled skirts and tights or a pleated plaid dress over seemingly more plaid pants. But the real treat came when Maryam began injecting bright color, first in small doses, then in the form of dyed tights, tunics, puffers, and of course, the “magic leotard.” The warmth of the collection, in this space nonetheless, brightened an otherwise gray New York afternoon.
Speaking of cool downtown girls, a standout moment occurred when i-D cover star Paloma Elsesser modeled some of the most exciting suiting we’ve seen yet — worn over a multi-colored leotard — and complete with bubblegum pink pumps. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, given Maryam’s eye for design, but the beauty was truly in the details as we saw crochet trim throughout, beaded fringe, croc belt bags, the most beautiful studded boots, and animal print abound. Joy is right.